Akara review – a taste of West Africa in Borough Market
A West African jack of all trades and a master of fun
Latest Entries
Nutshell review – Iranian food comes to Covent Garden
In a nutshell: you can do better On the face of it, a menu of small plates intended for sharing amongst multiple people seems like an oxymoron. It’s child’s play to share a heaving slab of roast, a cauldron of casserole or a heap of noodles with your gathered friends and family. It’s much harder … Continue reading
Mc and Sons review – the Thairish pub that’s not as plucky as it first appears
A pub food minichain hiding in plain sight Pubs serving Thai food seems like an odd pairing, but this now commonplace coupling was initially a result of nothing more exotic than economic necessity and entrepreneurial foresight. The first documented pub on these islands with a Thai kitchen was apparently Notting Hill’s Churchill Arms – a … Continue reading
Flor review – Lyle’s does British tapas in Borough Market
Small plates don’t always lead to big rewards Update 31/01/2022 – this restaurant has now closed There’s no shortage of places in London to graze on small tapas-sized plates while guzzling wine, places where the list of liver-annihilating beverages is several times longer than the menu, especially around London Bridge and Borough Market. To the … Continue reading
Wild Honey review – a classic moves from Mayfair to St James
It may not be that wild any more, but this restaurant is most definitely sweet In an age where many London restaurants are closing their doors forever, it’s heartening to see that at least a select few are beating the odds. Wild Honey holds a special place in my gluttonous history as it was one … Continue reading
Mercato Metropolitano review – the Southwark street food hall trying to be everything to everyone
Halfway between Elephant & Castle and London Bridge, but nowhere in particular Updated 30/9/2019 – added reviews of new traders and updated the reviews of Badiani, Duman, Little Sicily and Turkish Garden Updated 16/4/2019 – added hyperlinked table of contents, corrected spelling and grammatical errors The weird thing about street food in London isn’t the … Continue reading
Siren at The Goring review – seafood that isn’t fit for a Queen
Overstuffed and underwhelming Update 17/06/2020 – this restaurant has closed as a result of the novel coronavirus pandemic Seafood, like many things in life, is subject to the cyclical, ever-changing whims of fashion and finance. Although the details often depend on the specific seafood in question, seafood has – throughout the long history of these … Continue reading
Pescheria Assunta review – there’s nothing at all fishy about the London branch of this Rome seafood restaurant
The Italian seafood restaurant that moved from Mayfair to Earl’s Court I had eaten my fill, but I was not satisfied. As the hapless staff flailed at even the most basic tasks, the feeling started to drain from my numbed backside and legs from sitting for so long, while my phone – my only bulwark … Continue reading
Red’s True Barbecue Manchester review – the barbecue king in the north has been dethroned
This review of a Manchester restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage Despite its obnoxious pseudo-religious marketing schtick and occasional wobble in the kitchen, the Shoreditch branch of Red’s True Barbecue was one of the best American-style barbecue restaurants in London when I reviewed the place. That made its unexpected closure … Continue reading
Myrtle review – the understated Irish dame of Chelsea
Where sirloin steak is almost upstaged by a beef dumpling At the risk of indulging in armchair GCSE-level psychology, Myrtle is one of those restaurants where elements of the personality and background of the chef are clearly evident. Starting with the obvious, there’s the Irish-accented menu – a surprisingly uncommon thing in London – created … Continue reading
Bao Borough review – the Taiwanese sequel worth singing about
Every dish on the menu tried and tasted Bao in Borough isn’t just another Taiwanese restaurant serving up gua bao. It’s the latest in a line of small but highly successful bao restaurants that have been lauded and recommended by many, including this site. Living up to one’s own expectations is tough enough. Living up … Continue reading
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