Tubthumping noodles and dumplings that you’ll struggle to find anywhere else. Continue reading
Category Archives: Chinese Noodles
Bao Noodle Shop review – the best noodle soup you’ve never heard of
That difficult fifth album restaurant is nonetheless a hit Disclosure: on one of my visits, a single dish was offered for free. This offer was not solicited and was accepted out of politeness. Like albums and movies, restaurant sequels are tricky to pull off without flopping like an orca ejected from a plane. A successful … Continue reading
Baozi Inn London Bridge review – Cantonese roasts and Sichuanese dumplings under one roof
But this Borough restaurant isn’t the best of both worlds The flowering of new Chinese restaurants across London in recent years has given us all a joyous bounty to partake in. Biang biang noodles, skewered offal and spicy crayfish – to name but a few examples – are immensely preferable to the saggy prawn toasts, … Continue reading
Silk Road review – Xinjiang noodles and kebabs in Camberwell
Not all Silk Roads lead to treasure Some restaurants become so totemic and talismanic, that no amount of criticism on my part or anyone else’s is likely to dent their popularity. In London, a town somewhat unfairly pilloried for being expensive to live in, that maxim applies most potently to cheaply priced restaurants. Few sit-down … Continue reading
Master Wei review – masterful noodles that you’ve never heard of…
…and there’s plenty more to enjoy at this Russell Square Shaanxi/Xi’an restaurant Update 18/10/21 – added details of autumn 2021 revisit Opening a new restaurant serving Xi’an food (or Shaanxi food, if you prefer) in the seemingly barren concrete wastes of the Holborn-Bloomsbury-Russell Square hinterland appears bafflingly odd at first glance. Despite being wedged in … Continue reading
Murger Hanhan review – hearty, face-slapping noodles in Mayfair
Plus, one of the best vegetarian dishes I’ve ever had in London Expensive haute cuisine restaurants are common as muck in Mayfair. They’re plastered all over the place and many (but by no means all) are so blandly uniform that you could quite easily stagger from one to the other on some sort of tasting … Continue reading
Din Tai Fung Covent Garden review – people are queuing for hours to order the wrong dish at this dumpling restaurant
The biggest restaurant chain you’ve never heard of has opened in central London It should go without saying, but no restaurant is worth queuing for – at least in London or any other metropolis that’s similarly bursting at the seams with other restaurants at your disposal. Queuing for potentially hours on end does nothing but … Continue reading
Red Farm review – this Chinese restaurant isn’t revolutionary, but it is quietly radical
It’s an import from New York in Covent Garden, but don’t hold that against it Updated 28/1/2019 ‘Red Farm’ sounds like a Maoist agricultural collective where exiled bourgeoise are forced to hunt sparrows as part of their re-education, but it’s actually the name of a Chinese restaurant in Covent Garden. It’s quite unlike any other Chinese … Continue reading
Xi’an Biang Biang Noodles review – a rare taste of faraway Shaanxi in London
This Xi’an Impression spin-off brings the spice of life to Aldgate There’s no doubt that London can be a chaotic, stressful place that can drain not only your bank account, but also your tolerance for the continued existence of other human beings. To focus myopically on all the usual big city problems, though, would be … Continue reading
Etles review – this Walthamstow Uyghur restaurant is the Turkish-Chinese mash-up that London needs
Bring your own booze to this north London gem Update 5/08/2018 – corrected spelling error and tweaked the names of some dishes I’m sometimes asked why I hate anglicised Chinese food so much. It’s not the food that I hate per se, even though I’m certainly no fan of cloying yet dull sweet and sour … Continue reading
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