Latest Entries
Holborn Dining Room review – the Instagram pie phenomenon
★★★★☆ / British

Holborn Dining Room review – the Instagram pie phenomenon

Aye for pie with an eye for pie One should never, ever underestimate the importance of how food looks. Attractive-looking food not only influences how we perceive its taste, but can get otherwise disinterested punters in through the door in the first place. This placebo-like effect can be seen in the social media hubbub surrounding Holborn Dining Room. This previously … Continue reading

Rick Stein Barnes review – celebrity chef serves the only seafood in the village
★★★☆☆ / Seafood

Rick Stein Barnes review – celebrity chef serves the only seafood in the village

TV CV only gets you oh so far I have little time for most TV celebrity chefs, but I’ll usually make an exception for Rick Stein. His genteel avuncular charm, childlike wonder and boundless yet measured enthusiasm make him far more watchable than the majority of his arse-clenchingly irritating peers. The big man naturally doesn’t cook in … Continue reading

Lyle’s review – minimalist Shoreditch restaurant is exquisite despite its flaws
★★★★☆ / British / Modern European / Modernist

Lyle’s review – minimalist Shoreditch restaurant is exquisite despite its flaws

Defies both easy categorisation and expectations If there’s been one defining cultural aesthetic in the West over the past 20 years or so, then it has to be minimalism. Paring back everything to their essentials is, depending on your point of view, either the ideal way to show off something’s true nature or a stark, monotonous … Continue reading

Jugemu review – Soho izakaya flies solo
★★★★☆ / Japanese / Japanese Noodles / Sushi/Sashimi

Jugemu review – Soho izakaya flies solo

Uniquely Japanese in more ways than one Eccentric cultural institutions usually lose something in translation when they’re transplanted outside of their home country. Monster truck rallies, Eccles cakes and Viz magazine are prime examples. The izakaya is another. A Japanese staple, these bar-cum-restaurants are often translated as pubs or gastropubs, but none of those names really quite fit as izakayas are subtly different … Continue reading

What is Activated Charcoal? Everything you need to know
News

What is Activated Charcoal? Everything you need to know

London’s latest wellness food fad explained – and debunked Update 5/03/2017 – added clarification about the sourcing of Pizzicotto’s activated charcoal pizza flour and responses received, so far, from the companies covered The public backlash against the pseudoscientific ‘clean eating’ and ‘wellness’ food fad in the wake of the BBC’s highly critical documentary is well … Continue reading

Farang review – Highbury hinterland Thai residency that must become permanent
★★★★☆ / Thai

Farang review – Highbury hinterland Thai residency that must become permanent

San Daniele takes on a new life As someone with a reasonably high tolerance for spiciness, I had never really understood why some people were so adverse to chilli-infused foods that they would purposely avoid restaurants specialising in it. That was until I witnessed someone attempting to down a bottle of highly potent, naga-infused chilli … Continue reading

Le Dame de Pic, Four Seasons London review – Tower Hill hotel French needs better execution
★★★☆☆ / Modern European / Modernist

Le Dame de Pic, Four Seasons London review – Tower Hill hotel French needs better execution

In defence of the tasting menu. But not necessarily *this* tasting menu. There’s an unspoken rule that reviewers shouldn’t openly criticise each other’s work. This isn’t a conspiracy – we’re too competitive and too inept for such a concerted undertaking – but an acknowledgement that half-arsed writing and lapses in judgement can affect us all. … Continue reading