Xu review – Bao spin-off brings new twists to Taiwanese food
★★★★★ / Chinese / Taiwanese

Xu review – Bao spin-off brings new twists to Taiwanese food

New-wave Taiwanese food in old school surroundings Eagle-eyed Londoners will have noticed that an increasingly large number of new restaurants in London are branches, spin-offs and extensions of existing restaurants. That is no accident – experienced operators and proven ‘concepts’ are easier to stomach for commercial landlords, investors, venture capitalists and other risk-averse commercial partners. … Continue reading

Duck Duck Goose review – Brixton Cantonese roasts just in time for Chinese New Year
★★★☆☆ / Chinese

Duck Duck Goose review – Brixton Cantonese roasts just in time for Chinese New Year

Quack, quack, honk If there’s one thing that London isn’t short of, it’s Cantonese restaurants. For years it was the only kind of Chinese food widely available in the capital, with other cuisines from the continent-sized country only becoming prevalent in the past decade or so. This increased regional representation makes Duck Duck Goose even more … Continue reading

A. Wong review – Victoria Dim Sum and Peking duck
★★★☆☆ / Chinese / Chinese Dumplings

A. Wong review – Victoria Dim Sum and Peking duck

Plus the most mumbling tasting menu ever The overall trend in London restaurant menus, for the past few years, has been brevity. A few dishes, done well. Avoiding the false benefit of ‘choice’ and focussing instead on quality has been a very welcome development, but not every restaurant believes in short menus. A Wong has … Continue reading

Cha Chaan Teng review – the weird Hong Kong homage that breaks all the rules
★★☆☆☆ / Chinese / Eclectic

Cha Chaan Teng review – the weird Hong Kong homage that breaks all the rules

I ate here four times so you don’t have to I try not to read other reviewer’s opinions of a restaurant until after I’ve finished writing my own review, so as to not skew my own views. I couldn’t resist taking a peek at the social media chatter and user generated ‘reviews’ of Holborn’s Cha Chaan … Continue reading

Bao Fitzrovia review – Taiwanese sequel tops Tottenham Court Road
★★★★★ / Chinese / Taiwanese

Bao Fitzrovia review – Taiwanese sequel tops Tottenham Court Road

The king is dead; long live the king Fitzrovia has always had more than its fair share of restaurants given the relatively small size of this neighbourhood, hemmed in by Bloomsbury, Soho and Marylebone. Even so, the area has bloomed in recent years with some top notch restaurants opening in Fitzrovia from the revamped Newman … Continue reading

The Sichuan review – tongue tickling in Shoreditch and the City
★★★★☆ / Chinese / Sichuanese

The Sichuan review – tongue tickling in Shoreditch and the City

Fire and blood link Old Street and Liverpool Street London’s ‘ethnic’ restaurants tend to be clustered together in specific neighbourhoods due to quirks of history and rent. The Korean restaurants of New Malden, the Sri Lankan eateries of Tooting and the little Vietnam that is Kingsland Road are just a few examples. Cuisines that have … Continue reading

Xi’an Impression review – cheap Arsenal Chinese scores a hattrick
★★★★☆ / Chinese / Chinese Dumplings / Chinese Noodles

Xi’an Impression review – cheap Arsenal Chinese scores a hattrick

Cheap Chinese regional mega bites reviewed in rhyming couplets and haiku I’ve written before how about the under-representation of China’s numerous regional cuisines in London’s restaurants. If you needed a singular, illustrative example of the effects of that disappointing trend then it would be noodles. Veal Smasher and Happy Buddha have had to put up with my rants about … Continue reading