Singburi Shoreditch review: lost in translation in the move from Leytonstone
Singburi used to be the best Thai restaurant in London, but things have changed.
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21 Bateman Street review – Greek grills and thrills in Soho
Greek food near Greek Street There are remarkably few Greek restaurants in London, especially when compared to the proliferation of Turkish restaurants. 21 Bateman Street, which follows the annoying trend of naming itself after its address, is not only one of the few new Greek restaurants in London but is the only that I know … Continue reading
Bilbao Berria review – Regent Street tapas that’s not quite good enough
Masterchef? What’s that? I don’t envy any new tapas restaurant opening in London. Unless you’re as good as José or Ember Yard, or as cheap as Barrafina, then it’ll be a real struggle to stand out. Bilbao Berria tries to rely on three things to set itself apart – a menu with alleged Basque and Catalan … Continue reading
★★★★★ / ★★★★☆ / ★★★☆☆ / ★★☆☆☆ / Street food/food court
A guide to Harringay Market – street food review
Pasta, pizza, katsu curry, jerk chicken and more North London’s Green Lanes is best known for its Turkish restaurants and grocers, but there’s another culinary reason to visit the Harringay area. Harringay Market runs every Sunday afternoon from 11.00 to 15.00 with very occasional extended seasonal opening times. Alongside a butcher, baker, fishmonger, patisserie, vegetable … Continue reading
Iberica Marylebone review – chorizo lollipops and dopey service
Great Portland Street tapas Restaurant decor in London seems to have fallen into a Shoreditch-inspired rut. Bare light bulbs, reclaimed furniture, exposed concrete and brick walls – I’m bored of it all. The interior of Iberica’s Marylebone branch is therefore a breath of fresh air – both the ground floor and the mezzanine are decorated with … Continue reading
Chiltern Firehouse review – sound the alarm, this place is on fire
Marylebone celeb hangout serves good grub I like to make repeat visits to restaurants before writing a review for any number of reasons, from trying to get a feel for the kitchen’s style to giving wobbly staff a chance to get their act together. Or simply because I really enjoy what they serve. Making repeat visits to Chiltern Firehouse … Continue reading
Rawduck Hackney review – fish for Sunday roast, raw duck, cold lamb and more
East End brunch and dinner I’m deeply sceptical about the entire idea of brunch. It’s the original naff restaurant marketing gimmick – add some muesli and eggs to get a whole new meal! Charge extra for some mediocre coffee! While Rawduck didn’t change my mind about this bastard relative of the elevenses, I’m still mightily impressed … Continue reading
Fera at Claridge’s review – come back Gordon Ramsay, all is forgiven
Foraging in Mayfair We do a lot of things that our ancestors would find regressively, inexplicably primitive. In the past (and right now in the developing world while we’re at it), living in a field without running water, electricity or plumbing would be considered poverty. In the modern West, we call it camping and subject our … Continue reading
Kurobuta Marble Arch review – modern Japanese izakaya falls flat
An Edgware Road restaurant that isn’t Lebanese Eating at Kurobuta has, if nothing else, confirmed that I’m slowly devolving into a cantankerous old fart. Kurobuta is a modern take on the izakaya, a Japanese food pub, situated on a residential street just off Edgware Road. Originally due to open last Autumn, it was so delayed … Continue reading
American / ★★☆☆☆ / Barbecue/BBQ / Eclectic
Q Grill review – bandwagon barbecue bumbles into Camden
Porky’s larger, better looking but shallower neighbour You wait months for a new American-style barbecue restaurant in London and two arrive at the same time. Q Grill in Camden arrives hot on the heels of One Sixty in West Hampstead, but while One Sixty has a fairly short, focussed menu, the menu at Q Grill … Continue reading
One Sixty review – American-style barbecue in West Hampstead
Pied a Terre does BBQ ribs and pulled pork Londoners have a perverted, distorted sense of distance. West Hampstead is in zone 2 and part of the borough of Camden. It’s a mere 20 min Tube journey, at most, from Great Portland Street. That station is within pissing distance of both Oxford Circus and Tottenham … Continue reading
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