Kyseri review – this Oklava sequel packs big flavours into a cosy space
★★★★☆ / Turkish

Kyseri review – this Oklava sequel packs big flavours into a cosy space

The modern Turkish restaurant that’s far too good for Fitzrovia’s backstreets Update 29/12/2019 – this restaurant has now closed Although I only spent a day in the modern, nondescript Turkish city of Kayseri a few years back, the mere mention of this central Anatolian metropolis is enough to bring back fond memories. The city’s mod … Continue reading

Claude Bosi at Bibendum review – a classic building, a vaunted chef and the new Hibiscus
★★★★☆ / French / Modern European / Modernist

Claude Bosi at Bibendum review – a classic building, a vaunted chef and the new Hibiscus

Like a regenerated Doctor Who, what’s old is new again. I tend to review new restaurants and Claude Bosi at Bibendum does technically count as a new restaurant, having only just opened at the beginning of April this year. Except, in some ways, it is more of an amalgam of restaurants that have gone before it. Most … Continue reading

Casa Oaxaca review – grasshoppers and stone soup on a rooftop in the south of Mexico
★★★☆☆ / Mexican

Casa Oaxaca review – grasshoppers and stone soup on a rooftop in the south of Mexico

This review of an Oaxaca restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage Oaxaca may be best known to Londoners, if it’s known at all, as the inspiration behind the name of London mini-chain Wahaca. But this city in southwestern Mexico has a rich culinary tradition that’s barely touched upon in Wahaca’s menu. … Continue reading

The Ninth review – racing towards first place and falling short
★★★☆☆ / Eclectic / French

The Ninth review – racing towards first place and falling short

Fitzrovia French falls forwards While there’s hardly a shortage of expensive fine dining restaurants in London, there has still nonetheless been a general shift away from pricey, starched table cloth restaurants towards less costly, more informal eateries. In most cases, big name chefs and restaurant groups have been content to merely launch spin-offs, such as Dabbous … Continue reading

Big Fernand review – French burgers come to Tottenham Court Road
★★★☆☆ / Burgers

Big Fernand review – French burgers come to Tottenham Court Road

Every burger reviewed from beef to veal, chicken and mushroom too If you buy into the stereotypical caricature of French food as a rarefied haute cuisine that abhors any sort of perfidious Anglo-Saxon influence, then the very idea of French burgers is oxymoronic. That stereotype, like any crass over-generalisation, is of course untrue – evident to anyone … Continue reading

Antico Arco review – Rome fine dining near the Janiculum Hill
★★★★☆ / Italian / Modern European / Modernist

Antico Arco review – Rome fine dining near the Janiculum Hill

This review of a Rome restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage Londoners love to complain about The Big Smoke’s public transport and traffic congestion, but they haven’t seen anything until they’ve tried getting around Rome. The Eternal City’s minuscule metro and rail networks (minuscule for a major European capital at … Continue reading

Sardo review – classy Fitzrovia Sardinian
★★★★☆ / Italian

Sardo review – classy Fitzrovia Sardinian

Independent Tottenham Court Road Italian There’s a small clutch of Italian restaurants on the western side of Tottenham Court Road in Fitzrovia, but most are either yawn-inducing chains or dreary places serving up massive menus of slop. One of the very few exceptions is Sardo, a long-standing restaurant specialising in dishes from Sardinia. Not to … Continue reading

★★★★★ / Modern European / Modernist / Spanish

Gelonch review – Barcelona’s best kept secret

This review of a Barcelona restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage. Barcelona has more than its fair share of fine dining restaurants, but even in such a large city it’s possible to stumble upon some gems and Gelonch may well be one of them. It’s a small restaurant located on … Continue reading