Morada Brindisa Asador review – charcoal-fired tapas comes to Piccadilly
★★★☆☆ / Spanish / Tapas

Morada Brindisa Asador review – charcoal-fired tapas comes to Piccadilly

Big and small plates of charcoal grilled and baked meat Brindisa is one of the older tapas mini-chains in London, having sprouted as an off-shoot of a Spanish goods import operation more than a decade ago. Perhaps because its existence is therefore taken for granted, it’s rarely spoken of in the same excitable or reverential tones … Continue reading

Blacklock review – £20 for a huge plate of chops in Soho
★★★★★ / Steak/chophouse

Blacklock review – £20 for a huge plate of chops in Soho

Bargain West End grilled meat The idea of a restaurant that serves just chops sounds startlingly modern, but it’s actually quite an old idea. London used to be covered in chophouses – restaurants that, from the late 17th century to the end of the 19th, catered exclusively to men and plied them with booze and cuts of meat. … Continue reading

Le Chalet review – Q Grill winter pop-up at Selfridges
★☆☆☆☆ / Eclectic

Le Chalet review – Q Grill winter pop-up at Selfridges

It’s not as French as you think, nor as good as you’d hope It’s well known that media ownership in the UK is concentrated in the fat, gold-encrusted hands of an increasingly small group of notorious moguls, shadowy oligarchs and ex-porn barons. While restaurant ownership is far more diversified, in London at least, a similarly small … Continue reading

Bobo Social review – fussy Fitzrovia burgers
★★★☆☆ / Burgers

Bobo Social review – fussy Fitzrovia burgers

Peanut butter burgers and chocolate chilli bacon sides There are so many burger restaurants in London that it takes something special for one to stand out. Unfortunately for Bobo Social, it didn’t start out well and stood out for all the wrong reasons. While Bobo Social is attractive enough, the small two-floor restaurant fills up quickly, … Continue reading

★★★☆☆ / Barbecue/BBQ / Steak/chophouse

Beard to Tail review – meat straddling the City and Shoreditch

You can have any meat you want as long it’s Beef or Pork Beard to Tail is rather hard to categorise. Although it has a fairly broad menu of pork and beef dishes, it’s not really a steakhouse or a barbecue restaurant and sits uncomfortably somewhere in between. Although it’s within spitting distance of both … Continue reading

American / ★★★☆☆ / Barbecue/BBQ / Burgers

Duke’s Brew and Que review – the best ribs in London? Not really.

American BBQ comes to Hackney Update August 2013 – newer, more up-to-date review published Barbecue restaurants are like buses – you wait ages for one to arrive and then two come along at once. Pitt Cue in Soho may be (deservedly) getting all the attention, but a lesser known BBQ joint called Duke’s has also … Continue reading

★★★☆☆ / Modern European / Modernist

Patterson’s review – middling Mayfair mediocrity?

Cooking by numbers Update: this restaurant has now closed. Bo London now occupies the same premises. It’s tempting to think that because a restaurant has been well-established and operating for several years, then it must be doing something right and has struck upon a winning formula. The pessimistic view is that they’re merely cruising along … Continue reading

★★★★☆ / ★★★☆☆ / Mexican

La Bodega Negra review – Mexican food gets sexy

A Mexican restaurant of two halves As my fellow restaurant blogger 31_75 pointed out recently, in his own inimitable style, there are very few good Mexican restaurants in London. The situation isn’t nearly as bad as it was two decades ago when all we had were horrid Tex-Mex dives like Chiquito, but it’s still far from … Continue reading