Xi’an Impression review – cheap Arsenal Chinese scores a hattrick
★★★★☆ / Chinese / Chinese Dumplings / Chinese Noodles

Xi’an Impression review – cheap Arsenal Chinese scores a hattrick

Cheap Chinese regional mega bites reviewed in rhyming couplets and haiku I’ve written before how about the under-representation of China’s numerous regional cuisines in London’s restaurants. If you needed a singular, illustrative example of the effects of that disappointing trend then it would be noodles. Veal Smasher and Happy Buddha have had to put up with my rants about … Continue reading

Bellanger review – French-German mashup wags my tail
★★★★★ / French

Bellanger review – French-German mashup wags my tail

Alsace Islington brasserie on the green Update 16/8/2019 – this restaurant has now closed Britain’s long relationship with France has been a fraught and tangled one, to say the least. Thankfully that hasn’t stopped a surge of new French restaurants opening in London over the past couple of years. Bellanger, from the people behind Brasserie Zedel … Continue reading

Kaah Siis review – beautiful but overwrought and far too fussy
★★★☆☆ / Mexican / Modern European / Modernist

Kaah Siis review – beautiful but overwrought and far too fussy

This review of a Mexico City restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage Mexico City (or the DF in local slang) is hardly the most beautiful metropolis I’ve ever visited, but it does have its charms and quirks. Polanco, DF’s moneyed equivalent to Mayfair or Chelsea, has streets amusingly named after (mostly … Continue reading

Metamorfosi review – Gorgonzola lollipops and eel with ice cream
★★★★☆ / Italian / Modern European / Modernist

Metamorfosi review – Gorgonzola lollipops and eel with ice cream

This review of a Rome restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage Holidaying by oneself can be a lonely experience, but it also gives a great degree of freedom – especially when it comes to choosing where and when to eat. Metamorfosi is a restaurant that would put many of my dining … Continue reading

Il Sanlorenzo review – superb Rome seafood, shame about the service
★★★☆☆ / Seafood

Il Sanlorenzo review – superb Rome seafood, shame about the service

This review of a Rome restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage Seafood isn’t the first thing most people associate with Italian cuisine, if only because it doesn’t fit the stereotypes of Italian food deeply embedded in our collective consciousness – pizza, pasta and tiramisu. Seafood features prominently in many of Italy’s regional … Continue reading

Pipero al Rex review – quirky fine dining near Termini
★★★☆☆ / Italian / Modern European / Modernist

Pipero al Rex review – quirky fine dining near Termini

This review of a Rome restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage Restaurants named after their chefs, celebrity or otherwise, is pretty standard but a restaurant named after its sommelier/proprietor is a new one (for me at least). That’s the case at Pipero al Rex, Alessandro Pipero’s restaurant inside Rome’s Hotel Rex. The … Continue reading

All’oro review – glossy Rome fine dining
★★★☆☆ / Italian / Modern European / Modernist

All’oro review – glossy Rome fine dining

This review of a Rome restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage Update 19/2/15 – clarified language detail regarding Quandoo Love them or loath them, online restaurant reservation services such as OpenTable are now an integral part of London’s restaurant culture. This makes eating out in Rome seem all the more quixotic as … Continue reading

The Palomar review – modern Jewish food hits Soho
★★★★☆ / Eclectic / Jewish

The Palomar review – modern Jewish food hits Soho

Modern Jerusalem treats for pre/post-theatre and lone diner meals Despite appearances to the contrary, food from the Middle East has long had a presence in London from the Lebanese restaurants of Edgware Road to the kosher eateries of Golder’s Green. Previous attempts to make Middle Eastern cuisines, or at least food inspired by the Near East, more … Continue reading

64 Degrees London review – Brighton’s best flails and stumbles
★★★☆☆ / Eclectic / Modern European / Modernist

64 Degrees London review – Brighton’s best flails and stumbles

The temperature at which hope burns Menus are funny things. As restaurants have become more casual, pared back and minimalist, so have the menus. 64 Degrees, an outpost of the Brighton original and attached to the Artist Residence hotel, is a good example. While its menu isn’t quite as terse as the one at the … Continue reading