Posh nosh or just a load of complete tosh? It must be a hard and unenviable task running a luxury hotel and restaurant in Knightsbridge and Mayfair. No matter what, you will be compared to the big name competition – The Mandarin Oriental has Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, while The Berkeley has two restaurants, one by Marcus Wareing … Continue reading
Category Archives: Modern European / Modernist
Notting Hill Brasserie – it’s not a restaurant, it’s punishment
Whatever you do, don’t be late. Update July 2013: this restaurant has now closed. One of my favourite pieces of professional restaurant criticism is written by The Times’ Giles Coren. Now only available to Times subscribers, the entirety of the review is dedicated to an excruciating account of the poor service he received at the … Continue reading
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon Las Vegas review – great food, arse-numbing seats
This review of a Las Vegas restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage. Although famed French chef Joel Roebuchon has branches of L’Atelier in both London and Paris (among others), my first experience of his cooking wasn’t in either of those close-by locations, but in comparatively far-flung Las Vegas. Strictly speaking … Continue reading
Fleur review – small plates, big portions
This review of a Las Vegas restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage. Viewed from the outside it’s hard to imagine that Fleur offers some interesting fine dining in small plates form. Located in the bustling, cavernous mall-like parade of restaurants inside the Mandalay Bay Hotel, the bar and smattering of … Continue reading
Mix review – top of the world dining?
This review of a Las Vegas restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage. Even though renowned French chef Alain Ducasse has a well-regarded restaurant at London’s Dorchester hotel, I have yet to make my way there. I have managed to dine at Ducasse’s Las Vegas establishment though, the succinctly named Mix. … Continue reading
Arbutus review – the best restaurant in Soho?
One of my favourites. Soho has more than its fair share of restaurants, but Arbutus on Frith Street is one that I return to time and time again. Arbutus, sister restaurant to Mayfair’s Wild Honey, serves up inventive Modern European fare both a la carte and as a superb value £20 set menu. The decor of … Continue reading
Babylon at the Roof Gardens review – Hanging Out in a Roof Garden
What would Nebuchadnezzar think? Sod that, what do I think? History buffs will no doubt remember the legendary Hanging Gardens of Babylon, allegedly built by Babylonian king Nebuchadnezzar. Although the legendary Gardens, if they ever existed, are long gone, a homage has been recreated by Richard Branson’s Virgin Group in the heart of London’s Kensington High Street … Continue reading
The Modern (Bar Room) review – a work of art or pretentious and overpriced?
This review of a New York restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage. I usually avoid museum restaurants like the plague since they’re usually nothing more than glorified cafeterias serving up overpriced, reheated microwave meals and bland supermarket-quality sandwiches. I made an exception for The Modern, the restaurant at New York’s … Continue reading
The Larder review – Power Lunching or Powerless Munching?
A Modern European restaurant with an Australian twist. I feel mildly sorry for any City restaurant that happens to be on the same street as the celebrated St John Bar and Restaurant, a celebrated 17-year old fine dining institution. The Larder is one such restaurant, only a few yards away from St John. Whereas St … Continue reading
Villandry review – Poor quality and insultingly overpriced
Finding a bad restaurant in London is actually pretty hard. The diabolically bad restaurants don’t survive long in London’s commercially competitive environment and most of us have the good sense to avoid the merely awful ones, such as the tourist traps like the Angus chain of steakhouses. What’s left are the sea of mediocre and … Continue reading
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