Vico review – Italian fast food that thinks it’s opera but is just out of tune
★★★☆☆ / Italian / Pizza

Vico review – Italian fast food that thinks it’s opera but is just out of tune

Cheap (ish) Cambridge Circus cuisine Marketing is a magical thing. It can transform the mundane into something much more wondrous and exotic. Vico, an Italian restaurant that has taken over what used to be the Pizza Hut on the corner of Cambridge Circus and Charing Cross Road, is basically a fast food joint. Or a canteen or cafeteria if … Continue reading

Grillstock Walthamstow review – Bristol BBQ comes to north-east London
★★☆☆☆ / Barbecue/BBQ

Grillstock Walthamstow review – Bristol BBQ comes to north-east London

How Not To Do A Barbecue Restaurant Expectations, prejudices and other pre-conceived notions can cloud your judgement, which is why I try to be as open-minded as possible when reviewing restaurants. Trying to do so when walking through the door at Grillstock Walthamstow was difficult though. My Bristol-based chums had waxed lyrical about the original … Continue reading

Austen’s review – DJ Yoda’s Kensal Rise BBQ
★★★☆☆ / Barbecue/BBQ

Austen’s review – DJ Yoda’s Kensal Rise BBQ

Now there’s a headline I never thought I’d ever write Update 14/2/17 – this restaurant has now closed The comfortably leafy and middle class, yet relatively remote northwestern climes of Kensal Rise is the last place I’d expect to find an American barbecue restaurant. Even more so given the celebrity money backing it – DJ Yoda is … Continue reading

Rök review – Scandinavian smoked meats in Shoreditch
★★★☆☆ / Steak/chophouse

Rök review – Scandinavian smoked meats in Shoreditch

Smoke and fire that didn’t really rock my world Thanks to the recent and growing popularity of American barbecue in London, restaurants serving other cuisines have jumped onto the barbecue and smoking branded bandwagon. It wouldn’t be completely fair to ascribe such cynical opportunism to the people behind Rök, as they do serve dishes inspired by the … Continue reading

Banh Mi in London review – baguettes from Whaam Banh Mi, Moba and more
★★★★★ / ★★★★☆ / ★★★☆☆ / ★★☆☆☆ / Best and Worst group tests / Vietnamese

Banh Mi in London review – baguettes from Whaam Banh Mi, Moba and more

Vietnamese sandwiches spread across the capital My 2014 group test of banh mi eateries proved to be one of my most popular Best and Worst round-ups – and also one of the most contentious, as some of the ill-tempered Comments attest. I’m quite thick-skinned though and I take such vehement, blinkered criticism as a sign … Continue reading

The Cornwall Project at The Newman Arms review – Orwell’s pub is worth watching
★★★★☆ / Gastropub

The Cornwall Project at The Newman Arms review – Orwell’s pub is worth watching

Not a Cornish pasty in sight A lot of gastropubs are restaurants in all but name, but The Newman Arms in Fitzrovia stands apart from that annoying trend. It’s actually a boozer with a tiny downstairs drinking den that gets so packed out (especially on Thursdays and Fridays), that the crowds spill out onto the street … Continue reading

Paradise Garage review – the best value tasting menu in London
★★★★☆ / British / Eclectic / Modern European / Modernist

Paradise Garage review – the best value tasting menu in London

This railway arch restaurant will set your heart racing Update 12/02/18 – this restaurant has now closed Unless you walk around London, it’s hard to appreciate just how close many of the city’s neighbourhoods are to each other. Bethnal Green has the City and Shoreditch directly on its western border, while Mile End and Stratford sit … Continue reading

Red’s True Barbecue review – the North brings US BBQ to Shoreditch
American / ★★★★☆ / Barbecue/BBQ / Burgers

Red’s True Barbecue review – the North brings US BBQ to Shoreditch

Red Alert! Update 10/5/18 – this restaurant has closed Thanks to restaurants, I now detest the word ‘concept’. In restaurant management and public relations speak, ‘concept’ generally refers to the restaurant’s overall feel from cuisine and service style to atmosphere. Unfortunately, the word has now, in many cases, devolved to simply mean ‘gimmick’. Far too many … Continue reading

Pidgin review – tiny Dalston restaurant with an equally compact set menu
★★★☆☆ / Eclectic / Modern European / Modernist

Pidgin review – tiny Dalston restaurant with an equally compact set menu

Don’t just look at the star rating and move on, read the words If anything symbolises the obstacles London’s insane property market throws in the way of budding restauranteurs, then it’s the location of Pidgin. Located in a mostly residential area on a side street with a handful of other shops, passing trade is probably … Continue reading