Siren at The Goring review – seafood that isn’t fit for a Queen
★★☆☆☆ / Seafood

Siren at The Goring review – seafood that isn’t fit for a Queen

Overstuffed and underwhelming Update 17/06/2020 – this restaurant has closed as a result of the novel coronavirus pandemic Seafood, like many things in life, is subject to the cyclical, ever-changing whims of fashion and finance. Although the details often depend on the specific seafood in question, seafood has – throughout the long history of these … Continue reading

Metamorfosi review – Gorgonzola lollipops and eel with ice cream
★★★★☆ / Italian / Modern European / Modernist

Metamorfosi review – Gorgonzola lollipops and eel with ice cream

This review of a Rome restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage Holidaying by oneself can be a lonely experience, but it also gives a great degree of freedom – especially when it comes to choosing where and when to eat. Metamorfosi is a restaurant that would put many of my dining … Continue reading

The Palomar review – modern Jewish food hits Soho
★★★★☆ / Eclectic / Jewish

The Palomar review – modern Jewish food hits Soho

Modern Jerusalem treats for pre/post-theatre and lone diner meals Despite appearances to the contrary, food from the Middle East has long had a presence in London from the Lebanese restaurants of Edgware Road to the kosher eateries of Golder’s Green. Previous attempts to make Middle Eastern cuisines, or at least food inspired by the Near East, more … Continue reading

The Providores and Tapa Room review – fusion Marylebone masterpiece
★★★★☆ / Eclectic

The Providores and Tapa Room review – fusion Marylebone masterpiece

Can’t get into Chiltern Firehouse? Try here instead. Update 16/8/2019 – this restaurant has now closed Australia has a lot to answer for. Tony Abbott, Home and Away and The Veronicas are all things I can easily live without. But the Antipodes has also given us Kylie Minogue, the flat white and the Tim Tam Explosion. Modern … Continue reading

8 Hoxton Square review – from Soho to Shoreditch but lost in translation
★★★☆☆ / Eclectic

8 Hoxton Square review – from Soho to Shoreditch but lost in translation

Soho’s 10 Greek Street comes to Shoreditch Update 11/01/18 – this restaurant has now closed. The originally-named 8 Hoxton Square is the sister restaurant of 10 Greek Street, one of my favourite restaurants of 2012. This was reason enough to get me very excited about eating there, so I dragged Templeton Peck, Vicious Alabaster, Socialist … Continue reading

Berners Tavern review – looks good and tastes even better
★★★★☆ / Modern European / Modernist

Berners Tavern review – looks good and tastes even better

Hotel food with a twist Hotel restaurants are very different from restaurants in hotels. This may seem like a minor semantic difference, but there’s actually a yawning gulf between the two. Hotel restaurants are identikit eateries serving up a large menu of lowest common denominator dishes designed for weary travellers too tired to care and … Continue reading

Season review – four seasons, four meals, one restaurant
★★★★☆ / Eclectic

Season review – four seasons, four meals, one restaurant

Strawberry nachos, nettle soup, sardine skeletons, parsnip tarts and more. Season, as its simple name suggests, tries to use only ingredients that are in season and can be sourced from within the United Kingdom so the small menu changes monthly. This rather compact restaurant is located on a rather unattractive road near Finsbury Park that’s otherwise … Continue reading

The Pig and Butcher review – a pig’s ear or worth a butcher’s?
★★★★☆ / Gastropub

The Pig and Butcher review – a pig’s ear or worth a butcher’s?

Yet another Islington gastropub or something more? Islington has no shortage of gastropubs, but The Pig and Butcher caught my attention for two reasons. One, it has a hint of blood thirstiness in its name that is both mildly amusing and quite fitting since there’s apparently an on-site butcher’s room. Two, it comes with The … Continue reading