Overstuffed and underwhelming Update 17/06/2020 – this restaurant has closed as a result of the novel coronavirus pandemic Seafood, like many things in life, is subject to the cyclical, ever-changing whims of fashion and finance. Although the details often depend on the specific seafood in question, seafood has – throughout the long history of these … Continue reading
Tag Archives: raspberries
Bababoom vs Maison Bab review – new wave kebabs head-to-head
Islington brisket vs Covent Garden celeriac Traditional Turkish kebabs are nigh-on perfect. Whether you prefer shish, kofte, doner, iskender or beyti, the smoke and sizzle of a charcoal mangal is hard to beat. The wisest restauranteurs know better than to attempt ‘elevating’ or ‘refining’ these timeless classics, but instead attempt to put their own personal … Continue reading
Gul and Sepoy review – prince and pauper Indian dining in Spitalfields
Look beyond the marketing spin at this Gunpowder threequel Update 12/3/23: this restaurant has now closed As the end of the year approaches, so does the anniversary of this website and so my feeble mind inevitably ponders all that it has accomplished. While I would like to think that I’ve helped at least a few … Continue reading
Story review – a fairy tale or a shaggy dog story?
Tower Bridge gets a classy new neighbour A lot of new London restaurants have adopted some variant of the stripped back ‘industrial’ look common in Shoreditch – bare brick walls, exposed ventilation ducts and naked concrete floors. I’m thoroughly bored of this now cliched aesthetic, so I was pleased to discover that Story has opted … Continue reading
Arbutus review – the best restaurant in Soho?
One of my favourites. Soho has more than its fair share of restaurants, but Arbutus on Frith Street is one that I return to time and time again. Arbutus, sister restaurant to Mayfair’s Wild Honey, serves up inventive Modern European fare both a la carte and as a superb value £20 set menu. The decor of … Continue reading
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