Vegetables finally get the barbecue treatment… or do they? Continue reading
★★★☆☆ / Barbecue/BBQ / Eclectic / Vegetarian
Tag Archives: pudding
The Wigmore review – Michel Roux Jr’s Regent Street gastropub
The Langham’s second hotel bar in all but name I review relatively few gastropubs, not because I have any objection to them but due to a pair of far more prosaic reasons. For starters, many of the most interesting new gastropubs seem to be opening outside of London. As as a typical rootless cosmopolitan elitist, … Continue reading
Madame D review – Gunpowder spin-off tries to scale new heights in Spitalfields
But doesn’t quite reach the summit. It’s odd watching the city of your youth gradually change and morph, almost imperceptibly, over the years. Commercial Street is a thoroughfare that links Hoxton and Shoreditch in the north with Whitechapel to the south, running right through Spitalfields and parallel to the City as it does so. It was until recently, and still … Continue reading
Monty’s Deli review – street food bagels settle down in Hoxton
Jewish soul food reasserts itself in the East End Update 16/8/2019 – this restaurant has now closed Jewish food doesn’t have much of a visible presence in London to the casual observer. But that’s before you realise that many dishes that we taken for granted in our everyday lives – from bagels and smoked salmon to hot … Continue reading
Holborn Dining Room review – the Instagram pie phenomenon
Aye for pie with an eye for pie One should never, ever underestimate the importance of how food looks. Attractive-looking food not only influences how we perceive its taste, but can get otherwise disinterested punters in through the door in the first place. This placebo-like effect can be seen in the social media hubbub surrounding Holborn Dining Room. This previously … Continue reading
Hoppers review – the Sri Lankan verdict on Soho’s new Sri Lankan restaurant
To queue or not to queue If you hear a deep, guttural howl of despair echoing across London, then fear not. It’s probably just me triaging my email inbox. If they gave out monetary prizes for inbox restaurant buzzword bingo, then I’d be swanning about the Maldives in a hover chariot made of moonrock. ‘Seasonal British … Continue reading
Shotgun Barbecue review – sleek and inventive Kingly Street BBQ
I call shotgun Update 14/2/17 – this restaurant has now closed There’s been a small boom in American-style barbecue restaurants in London since I first started covering the cuisine in-depth. New openings tend to be fairly traditional though, at least in principle, in both cuts of meat and technique. They also tend to stick to all … Continue reading
Rök review – Scandinavian smoked meats in Shoreditch
Smoke and fire that didn’t really rock my world Thanks to the recent and growing popularity of American barbecue in London, restaurants serving other cuisines have jumped onto the barbecue and smoking branded bandwagon. It wouldn’t be completely fair to ascribe such cynical opportunism to the people behind Rök, as they do serve dishes inspired by the … Continue reading
The Old Dairy review – fresh curds or sour milk?
Not all gastropubs are created equal As its name suggests The Old Dairy is situated in what used to be an old cow juicing facility dating from 1890. Situated on the same stretch of grey, unloved north London road as Chez Liline, its drab location makes its physical appearance all the more striking. The handsome … Continue reading
★★☆☆☆ / Chinese / Japanese / Korean / Pan-Asian / Thai and Lao / Vietnamese
East Street review – full of Eastern promise or just full of it?
Oxford Street’s East Asian street food smorgasbord With some restaurants, the reasons behind the choice of décor can be inscrutable but that isn’t the case with East Street. East Street is a casual eatery located just off the north edge of Oxford Street and serves up a broad menu of street food from a large … Continue reading
The Picky Glutton 
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