Camille review – the French-ish restaurant in Borough Market that’s actually worth going to
Duck Soup goes French, sort of.
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My favourite London restaurant dishes of 2019
The best dishes of the year that you haven’t tried yet As another year – and another decade – come to an end, it’s tempting to feel a sense of melancholy. The country as a whole rushes headlong into what will almost certainly be a jingoistically embarrassing debacle, while countless cherished restaurants have shut their … Continue reading
The 2019 food writing jealousy list
Words I wish I had written in the past year Food is an inextricable part of our lives, so it’s no surprise that what we eat is often intertwined with other parts of our society. From where we eat it and how it is produced, to who produces it, who really benefits from it and … Continue reading
Where The Pancakes Are review – Flat Iron Square’s pancake house falls flat
London Bridge sweet and savoury pancakes I’ve always suspected that the food of our childhoods casts a long shadow, forming and influencing our tastes long after we’ve graduated into adult life. In its most primal form, the comfort foods we turn to for succor when adulting gets too hard are the ones most intimately tied … Continue reading
Davies and Brook review – this jet-setting restaurant at Claridges’ is running out of fuel
Humming along nicely? Not quite. An old work chum of mine was so ensconced in his suburbanite routine that he was only vaguely that Mayfair existed. When we had to walk through the area to get to a work-related Christmas party elsewhere, he was therefore taken aback at the gilded cushiness of the businesses lining … Continue reading
Paradise Soho review – the Sri Lankan restaurant packing big flavours into a small space
The new restaurant taking over Spuntino’s place Disclosure: one dessert was offered for free. This was unsolicited and was accepted out of politeness. I don’t envy London’s restauranteurs. Extending hospitality, warmth and service is made all the harder by the compromises needed to open a restaurant in the capital’s cutthroat restaurant market. Soaring rents in … Continue reading
Bubala review – the Middle Eastern vegetarian and vegan restaurant taking Spitalfields by storm
If vegetables are so delicious, then why do so many vegetarian and vegan restaurants insist on making them resemble meat instead? It’s never been easy eating out as a vegetarian in London. Prior to the noughties, your choices were largely divided between Indian restaurants of variable quality and hemp-ridden Mildred’s-type establishments which were almost universally … Continue reading
Bong Bong’s Manila Kanteen review – Filipino food comes to Bethnal Green
BBQ Dreamz street food stall settles down in east London Updated 23/11/20 – this restaurant has now closed Stop me if you’ve heard this one before. A street food stall serves up a cuisine barely known to most Londoners, earning plaudits and a devoted following in the process. Following a series of pop-ups, residencies and … Continue reading
Normah’s Cafe review – this hidden Malaysian restaurant is Bayswater’s worst kept secret
Tucked away in a quiet shopping arcade and full of understated sass Updated 26/11/2019 – tweaked the conclusions slightly Bayswater is a funny part of town. Dotted with hotels, souvenir tat shops and one too many overpriced cafes, it often feels like tourist trap London. But it’s also long been an area where you can … Continue reading
Baozi Inn London Bridge review – Cantonese roasts and Sichuanese dumplings under one roof
But this Borough restaurant isn’t the best of both worlds The flowering of new Chinese restaurants across London in recent years has given us all a joyous bounty to partake in. Biang biang noodles, skewered offal and spicy crayfish – to name but a few examples – are immensely preferable to the saggy prawn toasts, … Continue reading
Kolamba review – the Sri Lankan Soho upstart trying to rival Hoppers
But it’s an island-sized disappointment London’s restauranteurs love a good trend bandwagon to jump upon, whether it’s gua bao or banh mi. So it’s something of a surprise that it’s taken this long for another Sri Lankan restaurant to open up in zone 1 following the runaway success of Hoppers, both the original in Soho … Continue reading
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