Akara review – a taste of West Africa in Borough Market
A West African jack of all trades and a master of fun
Latest Entries
★★★☆☆ / Italian / Pizza / Steak/chophouse
Macellaio RC Union Street review – the Italian steakhouse that can’t tear itself away from pizza
‘What’s an Italian steakhouse?!’ The answer, of course, is a restaurant that serves steak cut from Italian cows. It’s a revealing response – pasta, pizza and pesto cast such a shadow over the perception of Italian food in our collective imagination, that anything else is literally inconceivable. If goldfish really do have a memory of just three seconds, then our gestalt intelligence is seemingly limited to just three things per subject. Continue reading
The Georgian review – Clapham’s Caucasus restaurant that must survive
No, not that Georgia – the other one Updated 24/03/2020 – corrected mislabelled/misidentified dish At the time of writing, the entirety of London’s restaurant industry – and indeed the UK’s – has entered a period of intense uncertainty. The Covid-19 coronavirus crisis has forced the shutdown of literally every sit-down restaurant in the capital (along … Continue reading
Chuku’s review – Nigerian tapas takes Seven Sisters by storm
The entire menu reviewed starting with all the vegetarian and vegan dishes The surprising thing about Chuku’s, to me at least, isn’t that this Tottenham restaurant serves Nigerian food. Although comparatively uncommon, Nigerian food isn’t too hard to find in London’s southeastern suburbs from Nigerian restaurants to (broadly) pan-West African takeaways. But those eateries not … Continue reading
Yah-So review – look beneath the chintz at this Jamaican restaurant in Croydon
Bring your loved ones – and even your frenemies – to this Thornton Heath restaurant We all, at some point or another, have to break bread with people that we’d rather spend less time with – not more. Although there’s always the distant hope that it’s *this* meal that will finally help put that fractured … Continue reading
Lupins review – the Southwark restaurant gem that’s easy to miss
The best thing about Flat Iron Square isn’t the street food stalls I’m sometimes asked how I pick which restaurants to review. The number and range of possible criteria is large and diverse, respectively. Some of the most important is that a restaurant has to be interesting and it should be in some way indicative … Continue reading
★★★★☆ / Barbecue/BBQ / Korean
Soju Reading review – the sizzle and thrill of Korean barbecue in nearest Berkshire
Kimchi, grilled bulgogi and chilled noodles in east Berkshire The very question of whether Reading is a part of London would’ve been ridiculous just a few short years ago. This quasi-commuter town in east Berkshire, which has always been within easy reach of the capital, is slowly being drawn closer into the Big Smoke’s orbit … Continue reading
Sarap review – the buzz and vigour of Filipino food arrives in Brixton
This six-month residency needs to become permanent We all have friends that say the stupidest, most regrettable things. Jaw-dropping comments that almost make you regret befriending them in the first place. In the case of one of my dining companions, his self-professed dislike for pork and ‘samey Asian food’ is a black mark against an … Continue reading
Trivet review – the London Bridge fine dining restaurant with an identity crisis
What’s the point of all this? Fine dining used to be so easy to identify. The opulently decorated dining rooms, the tablecloths, the suited and booted staff – and that was just the physical environment, never mind the hushed aura. Then there was the food, itself a world apart from what most of us ate … Continue reading
Madera review – the Mexican Treehouse hotel restaurant that’s fallen off its branch
Tacos with views over London, but it’s barely a feast for the eyes Many major cities across the world have restaurants perched on top of tall buildings – quite often rotating ones. Berlin has the TV Tower, while Munich is graced with Olympia Tower and the CN Tower looms over Toronto. However, the rule of … Continue reading
★★★★☆ / Eclectic / Portuguese
Volta do Mar review – Portuguese food that isn’t just from Portugal
Big issues on small plates from a Salt Yard alumnus Volta do Mar is an unusual restaurant in more ways than one. Founded by an alumnus from the storied yet troubled Salt Yard group, Volta do Mar’s Portuguese-themed menu has influences from all over the former Portuguese empire – or the Lusosphere if you prefer. … Continue reading
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