Hoxton tacos worth travelling across town for Update 27/1/2019 – this restaurant has now closed The phrase ‘Hoxton restaurant’ has become a joke to many. Whatever it may once have meant, prosaically or otherwise, it has now become a byword for shallow, self-indulgent and self-absorbed trend-chasing. Although there may be an element of truth in … Continue reading
Category Archives: Mexican
Corazon review – Soho Mexican takes a small step forwards
But it’s not the giant leap that London needs Update 22/01/2022 – this restaurant has now closed Santo Remedio was a startling breath fresh of air. Coming seemingly out of nowhere, that Shoreditch restaurant single-handedly revitalised the state of Mexican food in London with a deftness and depth to its cooking that was true to … Continue reading
El Pastor review – the Barrafina of tacos? Not quite.
Borough Market tacos has its ups and downs Restaurant decor has fallen into a bit of a rut in recent years. From exposed brick walls and concrete floors to reclaimed furniture and brass fittings, it’s rare to be truly surprised by the interior of any London restaurant these days. While El Pastor, on the edge of Borough Market, … Continue reading
Breddos Tacos review – StreetFeast Dinerama street food settles down in Clerkenwell
The Schrodinger’s cat of Mexican food in London Update: 8/02/2018 – added new opening hours and updated formatting Street food has been a significant force for change in the way Londoners eat out. Street food market stalls lack the comfort and convenience of a fully fledged restaurant, but they can easily rival, match or even exceed the … Continue reading
Killer Tomato review – attack of the imitation Shepherd’s Bush burritos and tacos
And I mean that in the nicest possible way Update 16/6/2019 – this restaurant has now closed Stuff any old combination of meat, veg and sauce into a tortilla and someone, somewhere will call it ‘Mexican’ even if the result only has a tangential relationship with Donald Trump’s favourite country. To be fair, former street food … Continue reading
DF / Mexico review – the bastard offspring of Wahaca and Wimpy
Wahaca’s fast food spin-off takes on Benito’s Hat and Tortilla When tasked with formulating a legal standard for the offence of obscenity, American judge Potter Stewart came up with the immortal phrase ‘I know it when I see it’. The phrase came to mind the first time I walked through the door of DF / Mexico. Perhaps … Continue reading
Casa Mortia review – Brixton Village Mexican needs a rethink
Simple doesn’t automatically mean good Visiting other countries and trying out cuisines in their place of origin is great, but it also presents a problem. It makes you realise just how badly many cuisines are represented here in the UK. Mexican food is one of the most badly affected victims, with Tex-Mex giving the entire … Continue reading
Habanera review – Shepherd’s Bush Mexican has style and substance
Skip the Westfield White City Wahaca. I have an inherent distrust of excessively showy-looking restaurants – anything too flashy is usually covering for deficiencies in the kitchen. That doesn’t have to be the case as Habanera shows. The rear half of the dining room at this Mexican restaurant in Shepherd’s Bush borders on the cheesy – … Continue reading
Benazuza review – Cancun hotel fine dining falls flat on its face
This review of a Cancun restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage El Bulli, Ferran Adria’s famed modernist restaurant, must have employed half a continent’s worth of people given the number of chefs claiming some connection to that now closed Catalan institution. Benazuza is located half a world away in the basement … Continue reading
La Chaya Maya review – Merida breakfast with a bit of cheesiness
This review of a Yucatan restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage Hotel breakfasts can be a repetitive, dispiriting experience. Over the course of a few weeks in Mexico, I stayed at mostly mid-range hotels. Most of them seemed to enjoy inflicting omelettes or fried eggs with toast on their guests for … Continue reading
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