Live music and a celebrity chef amount to a hill of beans Updated 23/11/20 – this restaurant has now closed I try to avoid mentioning celebrity chefs when writing about their restaurants. Apart from trying to avoid the cult of personality that most newspapers trip over themselves to indulge in, I just don’t think it … Continue reading
The Hawaiian raw fish salad that isn’t sushi Every now and again newspapers and blogs alike fall over themselves to breathlessly pant over and extoll the latest food trend imported from the US. Restaurants, street food stalls and supper clubs serving up the trend are listed and thus implicitly recommended, irrespective of the actual quality … Continue reading
All gelato is ice cream, but not all ice cream is gelato Update 24/8/2016 – added Badiani review, updated some links and fixed one location error Update 13/9/2016 – added Urban Ice review, updated some links It’s easy to joke about the cold and wet English summer, but those jokes will be a fond, distant … Continue reading
Unutterable swear words suppressed The quality of American-style barbecue in London has made leaps and bounds in the past several years, but continual progress is by no means guaranteed. There’s no clearer example of the potential for setting back an entire genre through massive incompetence than Low, Slow and Juke. Owned by pubco Marston’s, this underground … Continue reading
Food fit only for pissheads I usually see a slight dip in the number of visitors to my website over the weekend largely due, I suspect, to most of you getting hammered to blot out the horrors of the preceding five days. Those memories of the working week aren’t going to obliterate themselves, after all. … Continue reading
It’s not as French as you think, nor as good as you’d hope It’s well known that media ownership in the UK is concentrated in the fat, gold-encrusted hands of an increasingly small group of notorious moguls, shadowy oligarchs and ex-porn barons. While restaurant ownership is far more diversified, in London at least, a similarly small … Continue reading
Cut-price crustacean cuisine clash A lot of people get upset at the idea that London merely follows the example of New York when it comes to the latest food trends and fads. Proper burgers and ramen, for example, made the headlines first in the Big Apple before becoming popular over here. This seems overblown to me. As long as … Continue reading
Not all of London’s Japanese pork bone broth noodle soups are created equal Londoners are experiencing a ramen revolution. This soothing noodle soup, once a hasty add-on buried in the extensive menus of some Japanese restaurants, now has several restaurants dedicated to it. Although there’s lot of joy to be had from shio and shoyu ramen, … Continue reading
22 restaurants and hundreds of dishes reviewed – Dumpling dinner dreams and disasters Dim Sum is arguably one of Cantonese cuisine’s finest contributions to the world. It’s one of the few types of foods I can eat repeatedly without tiring of it, if only because of its endless variety. Many of the restaurants in Chinatown serve … Continue reading
A new low for Soho Stumbling around Soho on a weekend evening with a cohort of inebriated mates is often a recipe for japes and mishaps. Giving money to beggars, attempting to break up a fight, hitting on a sailor and buying dodgy puff are what usually happen. Another is finding somewhere to eat without a … Continue reading
The Picky Glutton 
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