Silk Road review – Xinjiang noodles and kebabs in Camberwell
★★★☆☆ / Chinese / Chinese Dumplings / Chinese Noodles

Silk Road review – Xinjiang noodles and kebabs in Camberwell

Not all Silk Roads lead to treasure Some restaurants become so totemic and talismanic, that no amount of criticism on my part or anyone else’s is likely to dent their popularity. In London, a town somewhat unfairly pilloried for being expensive to live in, that maxim applies most potently to cheaply priced restaurants. Few sit-down … Continue reading

Shu Xiangge Chinatown review – plenty of brains and heart, just not always in the right places
★★★☆☆ / Chinese / Chinese Noodles / Sichuanese

Shu Xiangge Chinatown review – plenty of brains and heart, just not always in the right places

Unapologetically Sichuanese hotpot Shuang Shuang, the Chinese hotpot restaurant married to a conveyor belt, befuddled many of its Chinatown neighbours when it first opened. Comparatively expensive with somewhat unadventurous ingredients, a bit too much logistical fuss on your part and a relative lack of large communal pots for group dining, it broke all the Chinatown … Continue reading

Little Duck The Picklery review – the height of summer in the depths of winter
★★★★★ / Eclectic

Little Duck The Picklery review – the height of summer in the depths of winter

Picklery not gimmickry. The sweet life. Keep it sweet. A sweet deal. Sweet as honey. Sweet as pie. Our understandable preoccupation with sweetness and sweet foods is so deeply ingrained that the word itself has become a synonym for all that is desirable and good in the English language. But this has also blinded us, … Continue reading

Claude Bosi at Bibendum review – a classic building, a vaunted chef and the new Hibiscus
★★★★☆ / French / Modern European / Modernist

Claude Bosi at Bibendum review – a classic building, a vaunted chef and the new Hibiscus

Like a regenerated Doctor Who, what’s old is new again. I tend to review new restaurants and Claude Bosi at Bibendum does technically count as a new restaurant, having only just opened at the beginning of April this year. Except, in some ways, it is more of an amalgam of restaurants that have gone before it. Most … Continue reading

Nanban Brixton review – Japanese food with a West Indian edge
★★★☆☆ / Eclectic / Japanese / Japanese Noodles

Nanban Brixton review – Japanese food with a West Indian edge

Masterminded by a MasterChef Disclosure: upon asking for the bill, my fourth meal here was given free of charge by the management in light of my repeated custom. This was not asked for and was accepted out of politeness.  There’s no shortage of casual Japanese restaurants in London, but Nanban is different. Although headed up by … Continue reading

Taberna do Mercado review – food so good the City doesn’t deserve it
★★★★★ / Portuguese

Taberna do Mercado review – food so good the City doesn’t deserve it

Sophisticated Portuguese food satiates the cravings you never knew you had If Spanish and Portuguese cuisine were human siblings, then Spanish food would undoubtedly be the attention-grabbing overachiever. From paella, jamon iberico de bellota and Cantabrian anchovies to the heady heights of modernist Basque and Catalan cooking, Spain has it all. Portugal, on the other hand, rarely … Continue reading