The Hawksmoor that’s not a Hawksmoor Foxlow is the latest restaurant from the guys behind the Hawksmoor mini-chain of steakhouses, but it tries to be different by concentrating on meats other than steak. I say ‘tries’ quite deliberately, as you can still order various cuts of steak at Foxlow. Even if this wasn’t the case, Foxlow’s … Continue reading
Tag Archives: squid
Berners Tavern review – looks good and tastes even better
Hotel food with a twist Hotel restaurants are very different from restaurants in hotels. This may seem like a minor semantic difference, but there’s actually a yawning gulf between the two. Hotel restaurants are identikit eateries serving up a large menu of lowest common denominator dishes designed for weary travellers too tired to care and … Continue reading
The Clove Club review – superlative Shoreditch supper
The best meal of the year and inexcusably overlooked by the Michelin Guide I encountered a fellow travelling Brit with some interesting views on food during my recent jaunt around Jordan. Although he had a broad palate, this didn’t extend to Modernist cuisine, especially multi-course tasting menus. ‘Artsy fartsy’ ‘nouvelle cuisine’ wasn’t ‘proper food’ he contended. Like … Continue reading
Smokehouse review – Islington barbecue gastropub
Where there’s smoke, there’s fire? When I surveyed the state of American-style barbecue in London, one of the most common queries was ‘what about Smokehouse?’. However, despite its name Smokehouse isn’t devoted purely to barbecue. This joint venture between Neil Rankin, former head chef at Pitt Cue, and the people behind the nearby Pig and … Continue reading
Pizarro review – still as good as ever?
Treading water or better than ever? When I first dined at Pizarro shortly after it opened in the autumn/winter of 2011, I noted a few niggling blemishes and hoped they’d be ironed out. After a longer delay than initially planned, I made a return visit on a weekend evening with Templeton Peck, Socialist Worker and … Continue reading
Taiwan New Paradise Banana review – a museum? A restaurant? It’s both!
This review of a Taiwan restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage Most Western tourists visiting Taiwan will probably never visit the city of Taichung in the western half of the island. Even if they do then it’s likely that they’ll be passing through on their way to one of Taiwan’s … Continue reading
Eating my way around Taiwan
A travelogue where I eat myself stupid while the locals gawp and stare I could bore myself to tears writing about Taiwan – the landscapes, the cities and the people are, respectively, awe-inspiring, terrifying and fascinatingly peculiar. Taiwan’s food culture is a complex, wonderful thing with cuisines from all over mainland China crowded together on … Continue reading
Naamyaa Cafe review – Busaba Eathai’s awkward younger brother
Alan Yau does it again? London’s restaurant going public can be broadly divided into two camps: those that care about celebrity chefs, brand names and trends and those that don’t. People in the first camp will almost certainly have heard of Alan Yau, the entrepreneur behind Wagamama, Busaba Eathai, Cha Cha Moon, Hakkasan and Yauatcha. … Continue reading
Ittenbari review – ramen revelation or revulsion?
Ra-ra-ramen-ra In London’s increasingly crowded restaurant scene, new eateries often need a hook or some unique selling point to pull in the punters. For restaurants drawing on the rich culinary heritage of a foreign country, one easy hook is a dish or regional cuisine underrepresented in the UK. Ittenbari is a new Japanese restaurant specialising … Continue reading
Chez Liline review – a taste of Mauritius in north London
A ray of tropical sunshine in grey north London? Update April 2013 – this restaurant has now closed With some restaurants, there may be a nagging doubt in the back of your mind as to whether the ingredients used by the kitchen are fresh or not. This shouldn’t be a problem with Chez Liline however … Continue reading
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