Picklery not gimmickry. The sweet life. Keep it sweet. A sweet deal. Sweet as honey. Sweet as pie. Our understandable preoccupation with sweetness and sweet foods is so deeply ingrained that the word itself has become a synonym for all that is desirable and good in the English language. But this has also blinded us, … Continue reading
Tag Archives: squash
Foxlow review – the Farringdon meat restaurant that’s not St John
The Hawksmoor that’s not a Hawksmoor Foxlow is the latest restaurant from the guys behind the Hawksmoor mini-chain of steakhouses, but it tries to be different by concentrating on meats other than steak. I say ‘tries’ quite deliberately, as you can still order various cuts of steak at Foxlow. Even if this wasn’t the case, Foxlow’s … Continue reading
Pizarro review – supersize my tapas
José gains a big brother Small London Bridge tapas joint José is one of my favourite restaurants to have opened in 2011. It’s therefore an understatement to say that I was excited about the opening of its sister restaurant, Pizarro, just down the road. While José serves up tapas, Pizarro serves up a menu of … Continue reading
Notting Hill Brasserie – it’s not a restaurant, it’s punishment
Whatever you do, don’t be late. Update July 2013: this restaurant has now closed. One of my favourite pieces of professional restaurant criticism is written by The Times’ Giles Coren. Now only available to Times subscribers, the entirety of the review is dedicated to an excruciating account of the poor service he received at the … Continue reading