The punchy restaurant hidden away on top of a food court. Continue reading
Tag Archives: prawn
Barullo review – eye-opening paella and tapas in the City
The Spanish restaurant near The Gherkin that truly delivers It’s odd to begin a restaurant review by referring to another restaurant that I haven’t been to and that has closed entirely. But bear with me, as there’s a reason behind my madness. Barullo isn’t just a new Spanish restaurant in the City, within spitting distance … Continue reading
Red Farm review – this Chinese restaurant isn’t revolutionary, but it is quietly radical
It’s an import from New York in Covent Garden, but don’t hold that against it Updated 28/1/2019 ‘Red Farm’ sounds like a Maoist agricultural collective where exiled bourgeoise are forced to hunt sparrows as part of their re-education, but it’s actually the name of a Chinese restaurant in Covent Garden. It’s quite unlike any other Chinese … Continue reading
Bob’s Lobster review – from street food van to London Bridge railway arch
But the claws on this seafood beast have been tied Update 18/7/2018 – clarified that the mini lobster roll is the only lobster dish on the dinnertime menu (there is apparently now a second lobster dish – a mac ‘n’ cheese – on the lunch menu) Street food traders have been settling down and turning … Continue reading
Mrs Le’s review – Clapham Junction’s rule-breaking Vietnamese diner
Banh mi and grilled meats galore If you’ve had Vietnamese food in London in the last decade or so, then you’ll know the drill when you walk through the doors at any one of the capital’s umpteen Vietnamese restaurants. Pho, summer rolls and perhaps a coffee or two. Endless identikit curries, salads and fried noodle … Continue reading
Mãos review – the enigmatic Viajante supper club isn’t that mysterious after all
But don’t tell that to the Nuno Mendes fanboys Update 10/4/18 – added a few new sentences to the conclusion. When you’re one of London’s most feted chefs, responsible for smash hits like the Chiltern Firehouse and Taberna do Mercado, then there’s only one thing left for you to do. You open a secretive supper … Continue reading
Hoppers review – Sri Lankan restaurant sequel finally takes reservations in Marylebone
Oxford Street’s eating options get a kick in the pants The little patch of shops and restaurants adjacent to Selfridges known as St. Christopher’s Place used to be one of London’s dining out black spots. Full of tourist traps fronted by touts wielding laminated menus either the length of the Bible or full of badly … Continue reading
Darjeeling Express review – Kingly Court Indian has inner beauty
Judging a restaurant on more than how good it looks on Instagram Update 31/7/2017 – added remarks about the bone marrow to the details of the goat curry An opinion column published on the newly launched London version of Eater caused a small stir among the capital’s restaurant watchers. The piece railed against the pernicious effects … Continue reading
Claude Bosi at Bibendum review – a classic building, a vaunted chef and the new Hibiscus
Like a regenerated Doctor Who, what’s old is new again. I tend to review new restaurants and Claude Bosi at Bibendum does technically count as a new restaurant, having only just opened at the beginning of April this year. Except, in some ways, it is more of an amalgam of restaurants that have gone before it. Most … Continue reading
Farang review – Highbury hinterland Thai residency becomes permanent
San Daniele takes on a new life Update 26/3/18 – added details of feasting menu and updated formatting Update 04/1/18 – Farang will now permanently reside at this address! Update 17/7/17 – this residency will now run until at least January 2018. As someone with a reasonably high tolerance for spiciness, I had never really … Continue reading
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