A pub that’s welcoming to all, even if its food won’t be to everyone’s taste. Continue reading
Tag Archives: pie
Darby’s review – steak and seafood in the shadow of the new American embassy
Nine Elms doesn’t have to mean zero taste Continue reading
Wild Honey review – a classic moves from Mayfair to St James
It may not be that wild any more, but this restaurant is most definitely sweet In an age where many London restaurants are closing their doors forever, it’s heartening to see that at least a select few are beating the odds. Wild Honey holds a special place in my gluttonous history as it was one … Continue reading
Pescheria Assunta review – there’s nothing at all fishy about the London branch of this Rome seafood restaurant
The Italian seafood restaurant that moved from Mayfair to Earl’s Court I had eaten my fill, but I was not satisfied. As the hapless staff flailed at even the most basic tasks, the feeling started to drain from my numbed backside and legs from sitting for so long, while my phone – my only bulwark … Continue reading
Myrtle review – the understated Irish dame of Chelsea
Where sirloin steak is almost upstaged by a beef dumpling At the risk of indulging in armchair GCSE-level psychology, Myrtle is one of those restaurants where elements of the personality and background of the chef are clearly evident. Starting with the obvious, there’s the Irish-accented menu – a surprisingly uncommon thing in London – created … Continue reading
Burger and Beyond review – there’s more to this Shoreditch restaurant than just burgers
Street food stall settles down in Shoreditch Burger and Beyond’s story sounds like such a throwback from the past, that it’s almost quaint in its retro-ness. This burger stall, a stalwart of street food markets such as Street Feast’s Public Market in Woolwich, has now set up shop in the heart of Shoreditch with plans … Continue reading
The 2018 food writing jealousy list
Words I wish I had written in 2018 (and 2017, for that matter) As 2018 staggers to an end, the realisation dawns on me that I’ve been writing this website for almost eight years. The number of lost weekends spent churning out an ungodly assemblage of verbs, adjectives and innuendo-laden captions is almost beyond counting. … Continue reading
Little Duck The Picklery review – the height of summer in the depths of winter
Picklery not gimmickry. The sweet life. Keep it sweet. A sweet deal. Sweet as honey. Sweet as pie. Our understandable preoccupation with sweetness and sweet foods is so deeply ingrained that the word itself has become a synonym for all that is desirable and good in the English language. But this has also blinded us, … Continue reading
Coal Rooms Peckham review – a train station restaurant that isn’t a dreary chain
Plus a beast of a bacon sandwich Salvaging, reusing and repurposing old fittings and furnishings to adorn new restaurants is nothing new; it’s been an ongoing trend in the English-speaking world for at least a decade, if not more. Renovating old buildings, while judiciously paying homage to their original purpose, has received less attention but … Continue reading
The Wigmore review – Michel Roux Jr’s Regent Street gastropub
The Langham’s second hotel bar in all but name I review relatively few gastropubs, not because I have any objection to them but due to a pair of far more prosaic reasons. For starters, many of the most interesting new gastropubs seem to be opening outside of London. As as a typical rootless cosmopolitan elitist, … Continue reading
The Picky Glutton 
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