Myrtle review – the understated Irish dame of Chelsea
★★★★☆ / Modern European / Modernist

Myrtle review – the understated Irish dame of Chelsea

Where sirloin steak is almost upstaged by a beef dumpling At the risk of indulging in armchair GCSE-level psychology, Myrtle is one of those restaurants where elements of the personality and background of the chef are clearly evident. Starting with the obvious, there’s the Irish-accented menu – a surprisingly uncommon thing in London – created … Continue reading

Yeni review – this modern Turkish restaurant in Soho deserves your attention
★★★☆☆ / Modern European / Modernist / Turkish

Yeni review – this modern Turkish restaurant in Soho deserves your attention

With brill, octopus and beef ribs on the menu, this isn’t your Dalston mate’s idea of a Turkish restaurant Yeni is the London counterpart of a feted Istanbul restaurant, but you wouldn’t know it from the Soho restaurant’s website. For the casual observer, the only clues to its Turkish origins are its somewhat enigmatic name and … Continue reading

Gilly’s Fry Bar review – the chippy that wants to be a tempura restaurant
★★☆☆☆ / British / Eclectic

Gilly’s Fry Bar review – the chippy that wants to be a tempura restaurant

Finsbury Park doesn’t need more battered fried food I have a confession to make. It’s a deeply unpopular, long-held opinion that will not endear me to many of you. It’ll be even more controversial than the time I disparaged chicken, dismissing it as a soulless meat fit only for children and invalids. I don’t like … Continue reading

Chiltern Firehouse review – sound the alarm, this place is on fire
★★★★☆ / Modern European / Modernist

Chiltern Firehouse review – sound the alarm, this place is on fire

Marylebone celeb hangout serves good grub I like to make repeat visits to restaurants before writing a review for any number of reasons, from trying to get a feel for the kitchen’s style to giving wobbly staff a chance to get their act together. Or simply because I really enjoy what they serve. Making repeat visits to Chiltern Firehouse … Continue reading

Galeto review – Brazilian street food comes to Dean Street
★★★☆☆ / Brazilian / Burgers

Galeto review – Brazilian street food comes to Dean Street

A party in my mouth or a damp squib? Update 28/03/2016 – this restaurant has now closed I’ve never seen the appeal of Nando’s. As far I’m concerned the seemingly ubiquitous chain serves unremarkable but acceptable chicken. My occasional dining companion Snoop Dogg explained Nando’s to me as ‘comfort food in grown up surroundings with … Continue reading