‘What’s an Italian steakhouse?!’ The answer, of course, is a restaurant that serves steak cut from Italian cows. It’s a revealing response – pasta, pizza and pesto cast such a shadow over the perception of Italian food in our collective imagination, that anything else is literally inconceivable. If goldfish really do have a memory of just three seconds, then our gestalt intelligence is seemingly limited to just three things per subject. Continue reading
Tag Archives: doughnuts
Paradise Soho review – the Sri Lankan restaurant packing big flavours into a small space
The new restaurant taking over Spuntino’s place Disclosure: one dessert was offered for free. This was unsolicited and was accepted out of politeness. I don’t envy London’s restauranteurs. Extending hospitality, warmth and service is made all the harder by the compromises needed to open a restaurant in the capital’s cutthroat restaurant market. Soaring rents in … Continue reading
Seveni review – there’s more than just barbecue to this sizzling Chinese restaurant
Grilled offal, Cornish pasty-lookalikes and hearty doughnuts are just some of the charms at this Lambeth North restaurant Not having to cook is one of the more pragmatic attractions of eating out, rather than staying in – it’s part of the service that you’re paying for after all. This utilitarian consideration probably helps explain why … Continue reading
Wau review – Malaysian food heats up Newbury
Bringing the spice of life to West Berkshire The West Berkshire town of Newbury is notable for a few things. It was the site of two battles in the English Civil War, its neighbours once included a RAF base picketed by anti-nuclear protestors and it’s the headquarters for the UK branch of telecommunications behemoth Vodafone. … Continue reading
Myrtle review – the understated Irish dame of Chelsea
Where sirloin steak is almost upstaged by a beef dumpling At the risk of indulging in armchair GCSE-level psychology, Myrtle is one of those restaurants where elements of the personality and background of the chef are clearly evident. Starting with the obvious, there’s the Irish-accented menu – a surprisingly uncommon thing in London – created … Continue reading
Yeni review – this modern Turkish restaurant in Soho deserves your attention
With brill, octopus and beef ribs on the menu, this isn’t your Dalston mate’s idea of a Turkish restaurant Yeni is the London counterpart of a feted Istanbul restaurant, but you wouldn’t know it from the Soho restaurant’s website. For the casual observer, the only clues to its Turkish origins are its somewhat enigmatic name and … Continue reading
Bob’s Lobster review – from street food van to London Bridge railway arch
But the claws on this seafood beast have been tied Update 18/7/2018 – clarified that the mini lobster roll is the only lobster dish on the dinnertime menu (there is apparently now a second lobster dish – a mac ‘n’ cheese – on the lunch menu) Street food traders have been settling down and turning … Continue reading
Gilly’s Fry Bar review – the chippy that wants to be a tempura restaurant
Finsbury Park doesn’t need more battered fried food I have a confession to make. It’s a deeply unpopular, long-held opinion that will not endear me to many of you. It’ll be even more controversial than the time I disparaged chicken, dismissing it as a soulless meat fit only for children and invalids. I don’t like … Continue reading
Chiltern Firehouse review – sound the alarm, this place is on fire
Marylebone celeb hangout serves good grub I like to make repeat visits to restaurants before writing a review for any number of reasons, from trying to get a feel for the kitchen’s style to giving wobbly staff a chance to get their act together. Or simply because I really enjoy what they serve. Making repeat visits to Chiltern Firehouse … Continue reading
Galeto review – Brazilian street food comes to Dean Street
A party in my mouth or a damp squib? Update 28/03/2016 – this restaurant has now closed I’ve never seen the appeal of Nando’s. As far I’m concerned the seemingly ubiquitous chain serves unremarkable but acceptable chicken. My occasional dining companion Snoop Dogg explained Nando’s to me as ‘comfort food in grown up surroundings with … Continue reading
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