The Manor review – proof that Clapham isn’t just for wankers
★★★★☆ / Modern European / Modernist

The Manor review – proof that Clapham isn’t just for wankers

Entire menu reviewed at intriguing Clapham surprise When I’d heard that a restaurant in Clapham, The Dairy, was serving high quality, complex and beguiling food I dismissed the reports as utter lunacy. I regarded Clapham as full of nothing more than crap bars transplanted from the Costas and stuffed to the rafters with wannabe Hooray Henrys braying about … Continue reading

Tredwell’s review – why the Evening Standard is wrong about Covent Garden’s best diner
★★★★☆ / Eclectic

Tredwell’s review – why the Evening Standard is wrong about Covent Garden’s best diner

Marcus Wareing or not, you need to eat here Update 4/11/21 – this restaurant has now closed. Covent Garden has more than its fair share of shoddy restaurants. For every quality eatery such as Ape and Bird or Opera Tavern, there’s a dozen more slop houses such as Five Guys or Joe’s Southern Kitchen. Tredwell’s is … Continue reading

Chiltern Firehouse review – sound the alarm, this place is on fire
★★★★☆ / Modern European / Modernist

Chiltern Firehouse review – sound the alarm, this place is on fire

Marylebone celeb hangout serves good grub I like to make repeat visits to restaurants before writing a review for any number of reasons, from trying to get a feel for the kitchen’s style to giving wobbly staff a chance to get their act together. Or simply because I really enjoy what they serve. Making repeat visits to Chiltern Firehouse … Continue reading

The Clove Club review – superlative Shoreditch supper
★★★★★ / Modern European / Modernist

The Clove Club review – superlative Shoreditch supper

The best meal of the year and inexcusably overlooked by the Michelin Guide I encountered a fellow travelling Brit with some interesting views on food during my recent jaunt around Jordan. Although he had a broad palate, this didn’t extend to Modernist cuisine, especially multi-course tasting menus. ‘Artsy fartsy’ ‘nouvelle cuisine’ wasn’t ‘proper food’ he contended. Like … Continue reading

Social Eating House review – Modernist cuisine gets affordable-ish
★★★☆☆ / Modern European / Modernist

Social Eating House review – Modernist cuisine gets affordable-ish

So popular, it needs its own doorman The oddly-named Social Eating House is the latest restaurant in Jason Atherton’s empire and it’s not quite as expensive as Atherton’s flagship Pollen Street Social. Whereas Pollen Street Social has a muted, inoffensive decor suited to its Mayfair location, the Soho-based Social Eating House is a tad more … Continue reading

★★★★☆ / Modern European / Modernist / Spanish

Saüc review – hit and miss hotel dining in Barcelona

This review of a Barcelona restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage. There’s no shortage of fine dining restaurants in Barcelona and quite a few of the newer ones are opening or have opened inside plush hotels but Saüc is slightly different. Although now located inside the Ohla Hotel on Via … Continue reading

★★☆☆☆ / German/Austrian / Modern European / Modernist

Anna Sacher review – home of the Sachertorte and so much more

This review of a Vienna restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage. The Sacher Hotel is perhaps the most famous of Vienna’s grand and opulent hotels if only for one thing – the Sachertorte. This chocolate sponge cake has a layer of apricot jam in the middle and the entire thing … Continue reading

★★★★☆ / British

Gilbert Scott review – Victorian splendour

Traditional British food with a twist in grand Victorian surroundings Despite the ravages of both the Luftwaffe and post-war urban planners, London has a diverse and remarkable architectural heritage and there are few better ways to appreciate this then by having dinner at the newly opened Gilbert Scott. The Gilbert Scott is housed within the … Continue reading