1251 review – this Islington restaurant is trying to make a name for itself…
★★★☆☆ / Eclectic / Modern European / Modernist

1251 review – this Islington restaurant is trying to make a name for itself…

… but is coming up short. Names can be many things. A descriptive label, a pigeonhole, a statement of intent. It’s therefore striking that Islington restaurant 1251 has such an easily forgotten, easily misremembered name. It may have some significance to someone behind the scenes, especially in light of the fact that chef James Cochran … Continue reading

Biko review – glossy, classy Mexico City fine dining
★★★★☆ / Mexican / Modern European / Modernist

Biko review – glossy, classy Mexico City fine dining

This review of a Mexico City restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage Biko is a glossy and sleek fine dining restaurant decked out in refined and soothing shades of beige and brown. It really could be anywhere in the world, but what it lacks in aesthetic distinctiveness it more than … Continue reading

Bilbao Berria review – Regent Street tapas that’s not quite good enough
★★★☆☆ / Spanish / Tapas

Bilbao Berria review – Regent Street tapas that’s not quite good enough

Masterchef? What’s that? I don’t envy any new tapas restaurant opening in London. Unless you’re as good as José or Ember Yard, or as cheap as Barrafina, then it’ll be a real struggle to stand out. Bilbao Berria tries to rely on three things to set itself apart – a menu with alleged Basque and Catalan … Continue reading

Berners Tavern review – looks good and tastes even better
★★★★☆ / Modern European / Modernist

Berners Tavern review – looks good and tastes even better

Hotel food with a twist Hotel restaurants are very different from restaurants in hotels. This may seem like a minor semantic difference, but there’s actually a yawning gulf between the two. Hotel restaurants are identikit eateries serving up a large menu of lowest common denominator dishes designed for weary travellers too tired to care and … Continue reading

Shin Yeh review – eating chicken testicles and more
★★★☆☆ / Chinese / Taiwanese

Shin Yeh review – eating chicken testicles and more

This review of a Taiwan restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage Chain restaurants have a poor reputation in the UK for limp, poor-quality food and soulless atmospheres. Most dedicated London restaurant lovers try to avoid chain outlets whenever possible, although there are a few that are worth seeking out. Different rules … Continue reading

★★★★★ / Modern European / Modernist / Spanish

Moments review – the best meal of my life. And it wasn’t in London.

This review of a Barcelona restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage. If you’re the sort of reader who only reads the introduction and conclusion to a review and perhaps skims the photos, then let me save you the trouble right now. If you haven’t already guessed from the headline above, … Continue reading

★★★★☆ / German/Austrian / Modern European / Modernist

Steirereck review – eating out in a Vienna park before sunset

This review of a Vienna restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage. Steirereck is an unusual restaurant since its premises are located within one of Vienna’s city parks – the Stadtpark. The Stadtpark isn’t Vienna’s most picturesque green space and the exterior of Steirereck’s building isn’t much to look at either, … Continue reading