Sarap Bistro review – going whole hog, Filipino-style
Pigging out with the Filipino restaurant that moved from Brixton to Mayfair
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Darby’s review – steak and seafood in the shadow of the new American embassy
Nine Elms doesn’t have to mean zero taste Continue reading
Craving review – vegetarian ramen hidden away near Tottenham Hale
There’s deliberately no tonkotsu on the menu, while there is tonkatsu watermelon. Continue reading
★★★★★ / Chinese / Chinese Noodles / Taiwanese
Bao Noodle Shop review – the best noodle soup you’ve never heard of
That difficult fifth album restaurant is nonetheless a hit Disclosure: on one of my visits, a single dish was offered for free. This offer was not solicited and was accepted out of politeness. Like albums and movies, restaurant sequels are tricky to pull off without flopping like an orca ejected from a plane. A successful … Continue reading
Lao Café review: a taste of Laos in Covent Garden
From the people who brought Rosa’s Café to London, a som tam by another name would be as spicy Continue reading
Humble Chicken vs Junsei review – chicken skewers, but with guts
Soho vs Marylebone yakitori face-off. Continue reading
Jollibee Leicester Square review – East Asian fast food, lost in translation
The food in this review was paid for, in part, using a gift voucher from Jollibee’s UK public relations firm. The voucher was unsolicited and they had no say over anything in this review, nor were they informed in advance of the date or time of my visit. Continue reading
Bala Baya review – the outside terrace with a crowd-pleasing menu
A Middle Eastern sharing menu with some charm, here and there. A curious thing happened in medieval Europe following the apocalyptic devastation of the Black Death. With workers fewer in number, those that remained were able to command better wages and working conditions from their titular overlords – an imbalance in the supply-and-demand of the … Continue reading
Kaieteur Kitchen review – a taste of Guyana in Elephant and Castle
Its menu of Guyanese dishes, which changes every week and sometimes everyday, has some similarities with other Afro-Caribbean traditions, but it’s still very much its own thing – especially if you’re fortunate enough to nab one of the Friday specials. Continue reading
The must-read food writing of 2020
Finely-crafted words to absorb along with a cup of coffee underneath a snug blanket Christmas and New Year’s are all about traditions. For this website, my minor festive tradition is to round up and link to some of the best food writing that I’ve read in the past 12 months or so. A collection of … Continue reading
Alhaji Suya review – Nigerian barbecue for takeaway and next day delivery
Some parts of London are more blessed with takeaway bounty than others, with surprises tucked away in the most unexpected of places. Alhaji Suya serves up Nigerian suya and kilishi, grilled marinaded meats and jerky respectively, from a unit in a North Greenwich industrial park having relocated from Peckham. Continue reading
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