Alhaji Suya review – Nigerian barbecue for takeaway and next day delivery
★★★★☆ / Nigerian/West African

Alhaji Suya review – Nigerian barbecue for takeaway and next day delivery

Some parts of London are more blessed with takeaway bounty than others, with surprises tucked away in the most unexpected of places. Alhaji Suya serves up Nigerian suya and kilishi, grilled marinaded meats and jerky respectively, from a unit in a North Greenwich industrial park having relocated from Peckham. Continue reading

Sarap review – the buzz and vigour of Filipino food arrives in Brixton
★★★★★ / Filipino

Sarap review – the buzz and vigour of Filipino food arrives in Brixton

This six-month residency needs to become permanent We all have friends that say the stupidest, most regrettable things. Jaw-dropping comments that almost make you regret befriending them in the first place. In the case of one of my dining companions, his self-professed dislike for pork and ‘samey Asian food’ is a black mark against an … Continue reading

Brigadiers review – the City version of Gymkhana smokes and sizzles…
★★★☆☆ / South Asian

Brigadiers review – the City version of Gymkhana smokes and sizzles…

… but the fire is fizzling out. On paper, Brigadiers sounds like a raucous yet soulless Cityboy frathouse. Brigadiers doesn’t just serve Indian-style grilled meats. It serves them in a clubhouse-style setting decorated in a cod British Raj-esque manner. There’s even a room kitted out with a pool table, a TV permanently tuned to Sky … Continue reading

Berber and Q review – Middle Eastern barbecue in Haggerston
★★★★☆ / Barbecue/BBQ / Eclectic / Jewish / Lebanese/Jordanian/Levantine

Berber and Q review – Middle Eastern barbecue in Haggerston

The incredibly satisfying BBQ you never knew you needed If you’re a superficial knee-jerk reactionary, then you’ll hate Berber and Q before you even step through the front door. It’s located in Haggerston, near the epicentre of horn-rimmed plaid-shirtedness that is Shoreditch. Heck, its next door neighbour is a board games cafe. Everything is ‘reclaimed’ from the premises, a … Continue reading

The Joint review – barbecue comes to Marylebone
American / ★★★☆☆ / Barbecue/BBQ

The Joint review – barbecue comes to Marylebone

Eat with your hands, poshos The number of American-style barbecue restaurants is growing, but not necessarily for the better. Mediocre restaurants such as Porky’s and Red Dog Saloon are opening up new branches left, right and centre while far better vendors such as Pitt Cue and Miss P’s Barbecue are still stuck at one site or … Continue reading

Q Grill review – bandwagon barbecue bumbles into Camden
American / ★★☆☆☆ / Barbecue/BBQ / Eclectic

Q Grill review – bandwagon barbecue bumbles into Camden

Porky’s larger, better looking but shallower neighbour You wait months for a new American-style barbecue restaurant in London and two arrive at the same time. Q Grill in Camden arrives hot on the heels of One Sixty in West Hampstead, but while One Sixty has a fairly short, focussed menu, the menu at Q Grill … Continue reading

Barnyard review – Dabbous does dirty food
★★★★☆ / British / Eclectic

Barnyard review – Dabbous does dirty food

Almost the entire menu reviewed at Fitzrovia’s Farmville-chic diner Update 6/01/2017 – this restaurant has now closed.  The phrase ‘dirty food’ is often used to describe the casual, inexpensive, non-haute cuisine, such as burgers and burritos, that have taken London’s restaurant scene by storm ever since the recession. I don’t like the term as it implies … Continue reading

Devran review – Green Lanes kebab newcomer
★★★☆☆ / Turkish / Turkish Kebabs

Devran review – Green Lanes kebab newcomer

Getting fat on big-ass kebabs Most of the Turkish restaurants on north London’s Green Lanes have been around for years, so the arrival of an apparent newcomer such as Devran is an unusual occurrence. Its decor fits the Green Lanes template though – murals depicting the Haiga Sophia and other typically Turkish vistas adorn the … Continue reading

American / ★★☆☆☆

Low Country review – The Deep South comes to Fulham

America! Fuck yeah! For most people, American food means burgers and barbecue. Low Country aims to popularise some of the lesser-known dishes of America’s Deep South and South Carolina coastline. Despite being a restaurant, Low Country feels more like a pub due to its combination of large bar, wooden floors, attractive rear garden, bright lighting, … Continue reading