The biggest restaurant chain you’ve never heard of has opened in central London It should go without saying, but no restaurant is worth queuing for – at least in London or any other metropolis that’s similarly bursting at the seams with other restaurants at your disposal. Queuing for potentially hours on end does nothing but … Continue reading
Tag Archives: truffle
Sabor review – tapas downstairs, roast suckling pig upstairs
Not quite the Barrafina 2.0 you were hoping for I try not to write too much about the personalities in London’s restaurant business for many reasons. But when two of the people behind Barrafina, the capital’s landmark tapas mini-chain, strike out on their own then I can’t help but sit up and take notice. Nieves … Continue reading
Indian Accent vs Gymkhana review: black pudding naan vs venison biryani
Slumming it in Mayfair for South Asian haute cuisine giggles Update 17/06/2020 – Indian Accent has closed as a result of the novel coronavirus pandemic Pitting Gymkhana against Indian Accent seems like such a natural thing to do. Both are pricey high-end Indian restaurants on the same street in Mayfair, located mere yards apart from … Continue reading
Bombay Bustle review – the casual Jamavar spin-off stuck at the platform
In this case ‘casual’ means ‘cheaper’. Sort of. It’s always fascinating to see what happens when a lauded, Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant launches a ‘casual’ spin-off. When Dabbous attempted it, the result was the very different and somewhat odd Barnyard. Both of those restaurants have now closed and, in retrospect, Barnyard felt a somewhat patronising, phoned-in … Continue reading
Holborn Dining Room review – the Instagram pie phenomenon
Aye for pie with an eye for pie One should never, ever underestimate the importance of how food looks. Attractive-looking food not only influences how we perceive its taste, but can get otherwise disinterested punters in through the door in the first place. This placebo-like effect can be seen in the social media hubbub surrounding Holborn Dining Room. This previously … Continue reading
The Ninth review – racing towards first place and falling short
Fitzrovia French falls forwards While there’s hardly a shortage of expensive fine dining restaurants in London, there has still nonetheless been a general shift away from pricey, starched table cloth restaurants towards less costly, more informal eateries. In most cases, big name chefs and restaurant groups have been content to merely launch spin-offs, such as Dabbous … Continue reading
Portland review – lamb tartare and pickled shiitake on Great Portland Street
Picture’s sleek new rival Coming up with restaurant names is not easy. With umpteeen restaurants opening a week in London, all the names that are both good and obvious have long been taken by now. But the guys behind Portland on Great Portland Street near the BBC’s Broadcasting House aren’t even trying. Given how its … Continue reading
10 Greek Street review – lame name, great food
Simple and good value Restauranteurs must rack their brains for weeks on end to come up with the names of their restaurants. Some create vaguely Latin-sounding names, while others simply name their businesses after the address as is the case with 10 Greek Street. This small Soho-based restaurant may lack an original name, but that … Continue reading
Terre a Terre review – eat your vegetables and you’ll grow up big and strong
This review of a Brighton restaurant is a break from The Picky Glutton’s usual London-based coverage Brighton has more than its fair share of vegetarian restaurants and I had the opportunity to try out Terre a Terre, one of its most well-regarded, with the help of Wicket, Kangaroo Face, The Youngling and Sue-Ellen. Actually, Sue-Ellen … Continue reading
Pizarro review – supersize my tapas
José gains a big brother Small London Bridge tapas joint José is one of my favourite restaurants to have opened in 2011. It’s therefore an understatement to say that I was excited about the opening of its sister restaurant, Pizarro, just down the road. While José serves up tapas, Pizarro serves up a menu of … Continue reading
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