Kanishka review – I won’t whitewash this chef’s bigotry and neither should you
Indian/South Asian

Kanishka review – I won’t whitewash this chef’s bigotry and neither should you

If you’re looking for a bog-standard restaurant review, then this isn’t it I’ve always tried to keep this site focussed on giving practical restaurant advice – where to eat and what to order, served with what I hope is a dash of wit and wry commentary. It’s what I’ve always wanted to read and hopefully … Continue reading

Master Wei review – don’t let the strawberry and black fungus salad put you off…
★★★★☆ / Chinese / Chinese Dumplings / Chinese Noodles / Shaanxi/Xi'an

Master Wei review – don’t let the strawberry and black fungus salad put you off…

…there’s plenty more to enjoy at this Russell Square Shaanxi/Xi’an restaurant Opening a new restaurant serving Xi’an food (or Shaanxi food, if you prefer) in the seemingly barren concrete wastes of the Holborn-Bloomsbury-Russell Square hinterland appears bafflingly odd at first glance. Despite being wedged in between a pair of pubs, there’s not much in the … Continue reading

1251 review – this Islington restaurant is trying to make a name for itself…
★★★☆☆ / Eclectic / Modern European / Modernist

1251 review – this Islington restaurant is trying to make a name for itself…

… but is coming up short. Names can be many things. A descriptive label, a pigeonhole, a statement of intent. It’s therefore striking that Islington restaurant 1251 has such an easily forgotten, easily misremembered name. It may have some significance to someone behind the scenes, especially in light of the fact that chef James Cochran … Continue reading

Kin et Deum review – the revamped London Bridge Thai that hasn’t fallen far from the tree
★★★☆☆ / Thai

Kin et Deum review – the revamped London Bridge Thai that hasn’t fallen far from the tree

Uncomfortable reading lies ahead The trio of siblings behind Kin et Deum would doubtless prefer that I spend this introduction focussing on their Thai restaurant’s airy and tastefully decorated interior or that they’re building upon the legacy of their father’s Thai restaurant which used to occupy the same premises. Unfortunately for them, I can’t possibly … Continue reading

Etles review – this Walthamstow Uyghur restaurant is the Turkish-Chinese mash-up that London needs
★★★★☆ / Chinese / Chinese Dumplings / Chinese Noodles

Etles review – this Walthamstow Uyghur restaurant is the Turkish-Chinese mash-up that London needs

Bring your own booze to this north London gem Update 5/08/2018 – corrected spelling error and tweaked the names of some dishes I’m sometimes asked why I hate anglicised Chinese food so much. It’s not the food that I hate per se, even though I’m certainly no fan of cloying yet dull sweet and sour … Continue reading

Hide review – the Dabbous sequel that could only have been born in Mayfair
★★★★★ / ★★★☆☆ / Eclectic / Modern European / Modernist

Hide review – the Dabbous sequel that could only have been born in Mayfair

Upstairs, Downstairs and where the two meet There are restaurants where it’s clear that compromises have been made. Whether due to money, time or stress, or some unfortunate combination of all three, a restaurant’s premises, location or menu sometimes aren’t quite what its proprietor and chef would have liked them to be. I’d be very … Continue reading

Lahpet review – Burmese food in Shoreditch
★★★★☆ / Burmese

Lahpet review – Burmese food in Shoreditch

Street food residency settles down around the corner from Smokestak There’s a well-worn, well-thumbed playbook to opening a restaurant in London serving a previously unknown, or at least little known, cuisine. Choose a name that sounds suitably ‘exotic’, yet isn’t too hard to spell and is preferably based on one of your chosen cuisine’s landmark … Continue reading