Sarap review – the buzz and vigour of Filipino food arrives in Brixton
★★★★★ / Filipino

Sarap review – the buzz and vigour of Filipino food arrives in Brixton

This six-month residency needs to become permanent We all have friends that say the stupidest, most regrettable things. Jaw-dropping comments that almost make you regret befriending them in the first place. In the case of one of my dining companions, his self-professed dislike for pork and ‘samey Asian food’ is a black mark against an … Continue reading

Trivet review – the London Bridge fine dining restaurant with an identity crisis
★★★☆☆ / Modern European / Modernist

Trivet review – the London Bridge fine dining restaurant with an identity crisis

What’s the point of all this? Fine dining used to be so easy to identify. The opulently decorated dining rooms, the tablecloths, the suited and booted staff – and that was just the physical environment, never mind the hushed aura. Then there was the food, itself a world apart from what most of us ate … Continue reading

Volta do Mar review – Portuguese food that isn’t just from Portugal
★★★★☆ / Eclectic / Portuguese

Volta do Mar review – Portuguese food that isn’t just from Portugal

Big issues on small plates from a Salt Yard alumnus Volta do Mar is an unusual restaurant in more ways than one. Founded by an alumnus from the storied yet troubled Salt Yard group, Volta do Mar’s Portuguese-themed menu has influences from all over the former Portuguese empire – or the Lusosphere if you prefer. … Continue reading

Colombo Kitchen review – the Sri Lankan restaurant brightening up Worcester Park
★★★★☆ / Sri Lankan

Colombo Kitchen review – the Sri Lankan restaurant brightening up Worcester Park

This special events catering company outshines the competition in Tooting Long before the rise of Hoppers, one of the standard bearers for Sri Lankan food in London were the cheap and cheerful restaurants of Tooting such as Apollo Banana Leaf. So much so, that the very idea of Sri Lankan food in London’s suburbs is … Continue reading

Paradise Soho review – the Sri Lankan restaurant packing big flavours into a small space
★★★★☆ / Sri Lankan

Paradise Soho review – the Sri Lankan restaurant packing big flavours into a small space

The new restaurant taking over Spuntino’s place Disclosure: one dessert was offered for free. This was unsolicited and was accepted out of politeness. I don’t envy London’s restauranteurs. Extending hospitality, warmth and service is made all the harder by the compromises needed to open a restaurant in the capital’s cutthroat restaurant market. Soaring rents in … Continue reading

Bong Bong’s Manila Kanteen review – Filipino food comes to Bethnal Green
★★★★☆ / Filipino

Bong Bong’s Manila Kanteen review – Filipino food comes to Bethnal Green

BBQ Dreamz street food stall settles down in east London Stop me if you’ve heard this one before. A street food stall serves up a cuisine barely known to most Londoners, earning plaudits and a devoted following in the process. Following a series of pop-ups, residencies and barn-storming media appearances, it finally finds a permanent … Continue reading

Baozi Inn London Bridge review – Cantonese roasts and Sichuanese dumplings under one roof
★★☆☆☆ / Chinese / Chinese Dumplings / Chinese Noodles / Sichuanese

Baozi Inn London Bridge review – Cantonese roasts and Sichuanese dumplings under one roof

But this Borough restaurant isn’t the best of both worlds The flowering of new Chinese restaurants across London in recent years has given us all a joyous bounty to partake in. Biang biang noodles, skewered offal and spicy crayfish – to name but a few examples – are immensely preferable to the saggy prawn toasts, … Continue reading

Kolamba review – the Sri Lankan Soho upstart trying to rival Hoppers
★★★☆☆ / Sri Lankan

Kolamba review – the Sri Lankan Soho upstart trying to rival Hoppers

But it’s an island-sized disappointment London’s restauranteurs love a good trend bandwagon to jump upon, whether it’s gua bao or banh mi. So it’s something of a surprise that it’s taken this long for another Sri Lankan restaurant to open up in zone 1 following the runaway success of Hoppers, both the original in Soho … Continue reading

Bar Douro review – Portuguese small plates, bar food and tapas
★★★★☆ / Portuguese

Bar Douro review – Portuguese small plates, bar food and tapas

By any other name, this London Bridge railway arch treasure would still be as sweet For a country so beloved by Britain’s middle-class holidaymakers, the food of Portugal has a surprisingly low profile in London. Unless you count the ubiquitous Nando’s (which I don’t), there are surprisingly few Portuguese restaurants in London with most seemingly … Continue reading

Seveni review – there’s more than just barbecue to this sizzling Chinese restaurant
★★★★★ / Chinese

Seveni review – there’s more than just barbecue to this sizzling Chinese restaurant

Grilled offal, Cornish pasty-lookalikes and hearty doughnuts are just some of the charms at this Lambeth North restaurant Not having to cook is one of the more pragmatic attractions of eating out, rather than staying in – it’s part of the service that you’re paying for after all. This utilitarian consideration probably helps explain why … Continue reading