Murger Hanhan review – hearty, face-slapping noodles in Mayfair
★★★★☆ / Chinese / Chinese Noodles

Murger Hanhan review – hearty, face-slapping noodles in Mayfair

Plus, one of the best vegetarian dishes I’ve ever had in London Expensive haute cuisine restaurants are common as muck in Mayfair. They’re plastered all over the place and many (but by no means all) are so blandly uniform that you could quite easily stagger from one to the other on some sort of tasting … Continue reading

Jugemu review – Soho izakaya flies solo
★★★★☆ / Japanese / Japanese Noodles / Sushi/Sashimi

Jugemu review – Soho izakaya flies solo

Uniquely Japanese in more ways than one Eccentric cultural institutions usually lose something in translation when they’re transplanted outside of their home country. Monster truck rallies, Eccles cakes and Viz magazine are prime examples. The izakaya is another. A Japanese staple, these bar-cum-restaurants are often translated as pubs or gastropubs, but none of those names really quite fit as izakayas are subtly different … Continue reading

A. Wong review – Victoria Dim Sum and Peking duck
★★★☆☆ / Chinese / Chinese Dumplings

A. Wong review – Victoria Dim Sum and Peking duck

Plus the most mumbling tasting menu ever The overall trend in London restaurant menus, for the past few years, has been brevity. A few dishes, done well. Avoiding the false benefit of ‘choice’ and focussing instead on quality has been a very welcome development, but not every restaurant believes in short menus. A Wong has … Continue reading

The Sichuan review – tongue tickling in Shoreditch and the City
★★★★☆ / Chinese / Sichuanese

The Sichuan review – tongue tickling in Shoreditch and the City

Fire and blood link Old Street and Liverpool Street London’s ‘ethnic’ restaurants tend to be clustered together in specific neighbourhoods due to quirks of history and rent. The Korean restaurants of New Malden, the Sri Lankan eateries of Tooting and the little Vietnam that is Kingsland Road are just a few examples. Cuisines that have … Continue reading

Nanban Brixton review – Japanese food with a West Indian edge
★★★☆☆ / Eclectic / Japanese / Japanese Noodles

Nanban Brixton review – Japanese food with a West Indian edge

Masterminded by a MasterChef Disclosure: upon asking for the bill, my fourth meal here was given free of charge by the management in light of my repeated custom. This was not asked for and was accepted out of politeness.  There’s no shortage of casual Japanese restaurants in London, but Nanban is different. Although headed up by … Continue reading

Muga review – Panton Street tonkotsu ramen worth sweating over
★★★★☆ / Japanese / Japanese Noodles

Muga review – Panton Street tonkotsu ramen worth sweating over

Showing Ippudo and Shoryu how it’s done I’ve always considered ramen to be a cold-weather dish, as it’s so hearty and warming, so it was therefore a surprise to discover ramen restaurant Muga opening during the height of balmy June. This minimalist restaurant is spread over two floors in an unassuming premises on Panton Street and was … Continue reading

Kintan vs Jin Go Gae review – Japanese and Korean barbecue face-off
★★★★☆ / ★★★☆☆ / Barbecue/BBQ / Japanese / Korean

Kintan vs Jin Go Gae review – Japanese and Korean barbecue face-off

Chancery Lane vs New Malden Update 22/2/2015 – added extra comment about the weird booze at Jin Go Gae Every restaurant needs a hook (or, if you’re uncharitable, a gimmick) to stand out in London’s dizzying eating out market. Kintan claims to be the first Japanese barbecue (‘yakiniku-style’) restaurant in the capital. While technically true, as far … Continue reading