Chancery Lane vs New Malden Update 22/2/2015 – added extra comment about the weird booze at Jin Go Gae Every restaurant needs a hook (or, if you’re uncharitable, a gimmick) to stand out in London’s dizzying eating out market. Kintan claims to be the first Japanese barbecue (‘yakiniku-style’) restaurant in the capital. While technically true, as far … Continue reading
Soho Korean food in a burger bun Update 15/02/2015 – added a couple of new tags and changed incorrect star rating in the review summary My dining companions don’t believe me when I tell them I don’t care about celebrity chefs. I keep track of their comings and goings of course. But when it comes down … Continue reading
Picture’s sleek new rival Coming up with restaurant names is not easy. With umpteeen restaurants opening a week in London, all the names that are both good and obvious have long been taken by now. But the guys behind Portland on Great Portland Street near the BBC’s Broadcasting House aren’t even trying. Given how its … Continue reading
Barbecue, banh mi, fine dining and even more barbecue The start of 2015 means a customary look back over 2014 – and what a year it was. This seasonal retrospective is a little later than usual this year as I’ve been busy cranking out new reviews. As with previous retrospectives, I’m not going to recycle already-published reviews by spewing … Continue reading
Market stall BBQ settles down on Commercial Street Market stalls and street food tend to be underestimated and under-appreciated by many visitors to London. That’s their loss as street food vendors can often be far better than more established restaurants, as my group test of American-style barbecue eateries demonstrates. An increasing number of street food vendors are settling down in … Continue reading
Alan Yau tries his hand at Turkish food with mixed results Londoners have been praying for the demise of the hated Aberdeen Angus Steakhouse chain for decades now. While that tourist-duping parasite is still with us, its weird clone of a competitor the Scotch Steak House chain has thankfully bitten the dust. Taking its place … Continue reading
It’s not as French as you think, nor as good as you’d hope It’s well known that media ownership in the UK is concentrated in the fat, gold-encrusted hands of an increasingly small group of notorious moguls, shadowy oligarchs and ex-porn barons. While restaurant ownership is far more diversified, in London at least, a similarly small … Continue reading
Cut-price crustacean cuisine clash A lot of people get upset at the idea that London merely follows the example of New York when it comes to the latest food trends and fads. Proper burgers and ramen, for example, made the headlines first in the Big Apple before becoming popular over here. This seems overblown to me. As long as … Continue reading
Disclosure: This cake was given free of charge. This offer was unsolicited and Cakes by Robin had no input into, or control over, the contents of this article. Delivery was arranged via a proxy to preserve my anonymity. I love baking. It’s a magical act where eggs, flour, butter and other ingredients are transmogrified into cakes, … Continue reading
Entire menu reviewed at intriguing Clapham surprise When I’d heard that a restaurant in Clapham, The Dairy, was serving high quality, complex and beguiling food I dismissed the reports as utter lunacy. I regarded Clapham as full of nothing more than crap bars transplanted from the Costas and stuffed to the rafters with wannabe Hooray Henrys braying about … Continue reading
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