A pub that’s welcoming to all, even if its food won’t be to everyone’s taste. Continue reading
Tag Archives: ice cream
Darby’s review – steak and seafood in the shadow of the new American embassy
Nine Elms doesn’t have to mean zero taste Continue reading
Chishuru review – the Nigerian newcomer in Brixton that already feels at home
Chishuru is almost giving their take on Nigerian food away anyway with its £30 set menu of four courses alongside an a la carte option. Continue reading
Eating my way around Cornwall, from St Ives to Falmouth
Cornwall has an outsized reputation for high quality produce, but hiking the South West Coastal Path from St Ives to Falmouth isn’t necessarily the best way to appreciate its bounty. Continue reading
Trivet review – the London Bridge fine dining restaurant with an identity crisis
What’s the point of all this? Fine dining used to be so easy to identify. The opulently decorated dining rooms, the tablecloths, the suited and booted staff – and that was just the physical environment, never mind the hushed aura. Then there was the food, itself a world apart from what most of us ate … Continue reading
Madera review – the Mexican Treehouse hotel restaurant that’s fallen off its branch
Tacos with views over London, but it’s barely a feast for the eyes Many major cities across the world have restaurants perched on top of tall buildings – quite often rotating ones. Berlin has the TV Tower, while Munich is graced with Olympia Tower and the CN Tower looms over Toronto. However, the rule of … Continue reading
★★★★☆ / Eclectic / Portuguese
Volta do Mar review – Portuguese food that isn’t just from Portugal
Big issues on small plates from a Salt Yard alumnus Volta do Mar is an unusual restaurant in more ways than one. Founded by an alumnus from the storied yet troubled Salt Yard group, Volta do Mar’s Portuguese-themed menu has influences from all over the former Portuguese empire – or the Lusosphere if you prefer. … Continue reading
My favourite London restaurant dishes of 2019
The best dishes of the year that you haven’t tried yet As another year – and another decade – come to an end, it’s tempting to feel a sense of melancholy. The country as a whole rushes headlong into what will almost certainly be a jingoistically embarrassing debacle, while countless cherished restaurants have shut their … Continue reading
Davies and Brook review – this jet-setting restaurant at Claridges’ is running out of fuel
Humming along nicely? Not quite. An old work chum of mine was so ensconced in his suburbanite routine that he was only vaguely that Mayfair existed. When we had to walk through the area to get to a work-related Christmas party elsewhere, he was therefore taken aback at the gilded cushiness of the businesses lining … Continue reading
Paradise Soho review – the Sri Lankan restaurant packing big flavours into a small space
The new restaurant taking over Spuntino’s place Disclosure: one dessert was offered for free. This was unsolicited and was accepted out of politeness. I don’t envy London’s restauranteurs. Extending hospitality, warmth and service is made all the harder by the compromises needed to open a restaurant in the capital’s cutthroat restaurant market. Soaring rents in … Continue reading
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