Bombay Bustle review – the casual Jamavar spin-off stuck at the platform
★★★☆☆ / Indian/South Asian

Bombay Bustle review – the casual Jamavar spin-off stuck at the platform

In this case ‘casual’ means ‘cheaper’. Sort of. It’s always fascinating to see what happens when a lauded, Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant launches a ‘casual’ spin-off. When Dabbous attempted it, the result was the very different and somewhat odd Barnyard. Both of those restaurants have now closed and, in retrospect, Barnyard felt a somewhat patronising, phoned-in … Continue reading

The best dishes of 2017 – food that you need in your life
★★★★★ / ★★★★☆ / ★★★☆☆ / News

The best dishes of 2017 – food that you need in your life

2017 has been an incredibly hectic year for London restaurants, even by the frenetic standards of this city. Despite the closure of some much missed favourites, new restaurants have continued to open at a dizzying and surely unsustainable pace. Some of that has been driven by a modest influx of celebrity chefs from abroad – … Continue reading

Santo Remedio London Bridge review – the best Mexican restaurant in London is back with a bigger menu
★★★★★ / Mexican

Santo Remedio London Bridge review – the best Mexican restaurant in London is back with a bigger menu

Disclosure: I contributed to Santo Remedio’s crowd-funding campaign on Kickstarter with a modest donation in the region of £75-200. Arrogant. Cocksure. Overconfident know-nothing. Snooty elitist. Those are just some of the epithets slung my way in the hatemail that I try to ignore (usually quite successfully). That doesn’t mean I don’t question my own judgment … Continue reading

Duddell’s review – heavenly Chinese cooking in a London Bridge church
★★★★☆ / Chinese / Chinese Dumplings / Chinese Noodles

Duddell’s review – heavenly Chinese cooking in a London Bridge church

Hong Kong jewel glistens in the shadow of the Shard It’s very easy to take things for granted and Cantonese food is one of those things. London has been fortunate enough to benefit from some respectable and credible Cantonese cooking for several years now. And yet this venerable style of cooking has fallen out of … Continue reading

Gul and Sepoy review – prince and pauper Indian dining in Spitalfields
★★★★☆ / Indian/South Asian

Gul and Sepoy review – prince and pauper Indian dining in Spitalfields

Look beyond the marketing spin at this Gunpowder threequel As the end of the year approaches, so does the anniversary of this website and so my feeble mind inevitably ponders all that it has accomplished. While I would like to think that I’ve helped at least a few Londoners (and visitors too) at making better … Continue reading

El Muro review – Mexican food comes to Muswell Hill. Sort of.
★★☆☆☆ / Mexican

El Muro review – Mexican food comes to Muswell Hill. Sort of.

It’s better than Tex-Mex. Just. Reviewing restaurants means I meander all over London, seeing firsthand the disparate boroughs, villages and neighbourhoods that make up this sprawling metropolis of ours. It’s tempting to think that once you venture outside of the capital’s core restaurant areas (Soho, Islington, Shoreditch and The City, or thereabouts), you would have … Continue reading

Bad Sports review – tacos so good, it’s unsportsmanlike
★★★★☆ / Mexican

Bad Sports review – tacos so good, it’s unsportsmanlike

Hoxton tacos worth travelling across town for The phrase ‘Hoxton restaurant’ has become a joke to many. Whatever it may once have meant, prosaically or otherwise, it has now become a byword for shallow, self-indulgent and self-absorbed trend-chasing. Although there may be an element of truth in this when looking only at the more obviously … Continue reading