Little Smoke review – Moorgate Smokehouse spin-off doesn’t have the chops
★★☆☆☆ / Steak/chophouse

Little Smoke review – Moorgate Smokehouse spin-off doesn’t have the chops

‘Little’ is the operative word and not in a good way I’ve been reviewing restaurants for long enough now to see multiple restaurants rise and fall, often at the same address. The small space at the edge of City Point near Moorgate is a case in point. Six years ago it was a forgettable and now … Continue reading

Blue’s Smokehouse Twickenham review – dire suburban barbecue fit only for meatheads
★★☆☆☆ / Barbecue/BBQ

Blue’s Smokehouse Twickenham review – dire suburban barbecue fit only for meatheads

The meal so bad, I had to apologise to my dining companion The cliché about the suburbs, especially those south of the river, is that there’s nowhere good to eat. That’s not quite true anymore, if it ever was, especially as London’s property crisis and the increasingly brutal restaurant market push more and more restaurateurs … Continue reading

Cattle and Co review – King’s Cross meat bandwagon rattles along
★★☆☆☆ / Barbecue/BBQ / Burgers

Cattle and Co review – King’s Cross meat bandwagon rattles along

Botched burgers and bungled barbecue Conflating burgers and barbecue into the same menu is a common mistake. It’s easy to see why – alongside mac and cheese, they are the emblematic dishes of American cuisine in the popular imagination. But they’re also very different. The best burgers are cooked medium rare at high temperatures with … Continue reading

Cha Chaan Teng review – the weird Hong Kong homage that breaks all the rules
★★☆☆☆ / Chinese / Eclectic

Cha Chaan Teng review – the weird Hong Kong homage that breaks all the rules

I ate here four times so you don’t have to I try not to read other reviewer’s opinions of a restaurant until after I’ve finished writing my own review, so as to not skew my own views. I couldn’t resist taking a peek at the social media chatter and user generated ‘reviews’ of Holborn’s Cha Chaan … Continue reading

Poke in London review: Tombo vs Black Roe vs the rest
American / ★★★★☆ / ★★★☆☆ / ★★☆☆☆ / ★☆☆☆☆

Poke in London review: Tombo vs Black Roe vs the rest

The Hawaiian raw fish salad that isn’t sushi Every now and again newspapers and blogs alike fall over themselves to breathlessly pant over and extoll the latest food trend imported from the US. Restaurants, street food stalls and supper clubs serving up the trend are listed and thus implicitly recommended, irrespective of the actual quality … Continue reading

The best and worst gelato in London – 109 scoops of Italian ice cream and 37 gelateria reviewed
★★★★★ / ★★★★☆ / ★★★☆☆ / ★★☆☆☆ / ★☆☆☆☆ / Best and Worst group tests / Italian

The best and worst gelato in London – 109 scoops of Italian ice cream and 37 gelateria reviewed

All gelato is ice cream, but not all ice cream is gelato Update 24/8/2016 – added Badiani review, updated some links and fixed one location error Update 13/9/2016 – added Urban Ice review, updated some links It’s easy to joke about the cold and wet English summer, but those jokes will be a fond, distant … Continue reading

DF / Mexico review – the bastard offspring of Wahaca and Wimpy
★★☆☆☆ / Mexican

DF / Mexico review – the bastard offspring of Wahaca and Wimpy

Wahaca’s fast food spin-off takes on Benito’s Hat and Tortilla When tasked with formulating a legal standard for the offence of obscenity, American judge Potter Stewart came up with the immortal phrase ‘I know it when I see it’. The phrase came to mind the first time I walked through the door of DF / Mexico. Perhaps … Continue reading