Wau review – Malaysian food heats up Newbury
★★★☆☆ / Malaysian/Singaporean

Wau review – Malaysian food heats up Newbury

Bringing the spice of life to West Berkshire The West Berkshire town of Newbury is notable for a few things. It was the site of two battles in the English Civil War, its neighbours once included a RAF base picketed by anti-nuclear protestors and it’s the headquarters for the UK branch of telecommunications behemoth Vodafone. … Continue reading

Mc and Sons review – the Thairish pub that’s not as plucky as it first appears
★★☆☆☆ / Gastropub / Thai

Mc and Sons review – the Thairish pub that’s not as plucky as it first appears

A pub food minichain hiding in plain sight Pubs serving Thai food seems like an odd pairing, but this now commonplace coupling was initially a result of nothing more exotic than economic necessity and entrepreneurial foresight. The first documented pub on these islands with a Thai kitchen was apparently Notting Hill’s Churchill Arms – a … Continue reading

Silk Road review – Xinjiang noodles and kebabs in Camberwell
★★★☆☆ / Chinese / Chinese Dumplings / Chinese Noodles

Silk Road review – Xinjiang noodles and kebabs in Camberwell

Not all Silk Roads lead to treasure Some restaurants become so totemic and talismanic, that no amount of criticism on my part or anyone else’s is likely to dent their popularity. In London, a town somewhat unfairly pilloried for being expensive to live in, that maxim applies most potently to cheaply priced restaurants. Few sit-down … Continue reading

Master Wei review – don’t let the strawberry and black fungus salad put you off…
★★★★☆ / Chinese / Chinese Dumplings / Chinese Noodles / Shaanxi/Xi'an

Master Wei review – don’t let the strawberry and black fungus salad put you off…

…there’s plenty more to enjoy at this Russell Square Shaanxi/Xi’an restaurant Opening a new restaurant serving Xi’an food (or Shaanxi food, if you prefer) in the seemingly barren concrete wastes of the Holborn-Bloomsbury-Russell Square hinterland appears bafflingly odd at first glance. Despite being wedged in between a pair of pubs, there’s not much in the … Continue reading

Murger Hanhan review – hearty, face-slapping noodles in Mayfair
★★★★☆ / Chinese / Chinese Noodles

Murger Hanhan review – hearty, face-slapping noodles in Mayfair

Plus, one of the best vegetarian dishes I’ve ever had in London Expensive haute cuisine restaurants are common as muck in Mayfair. They’re plastered all over the place and many (but by no means all) are so blandly uniform that you could quite easily stagger from one to the other on some sort of tasting … Continue reading

Din Tai Fung Covent Garden review – people are queuing for hours to order the wrong dish at this dumpling restaurant
★★★☆☆ / Chinese / Chinese Dumplings / Chinese Noodles / Taiwanese

Din Tai Fung Covent Garden review – people are queuing for hours to order the wrong dish at this dumpling restaurant

The biggest restaurant chain you’ve never heard of has opened in central London It should go without saying, but no restaurant is worth queuing for – at least in London or any other metropolis that’s similarly bursting at the seams with other restaurants at your disposal. Queuing for potentially hours on end does nothing but … Continue reading

Red Farm review – this Chinese restaurant isn’t revolutionary, but it is quietly radical
★★★★☆ / Chinese / Chinese Dumplings / Chinese Noodles

Red Farm review – this Chinese restaurant isn’t revolutionary, but it is quietly radical

It’s an import from New York in Covent Garden, but don’t hold that against it Updated 28/1/2019 ‘Red Farm’ sounds like a Maoist agricultural collective where exiled bourgeoise are forced to hunt sparrows as part of their re-education, but it’s actually the name of a Chinese restaurant in Covent Garden. It’s quite unlike any other Chinese … Continue reading