In this case ‘casual’ means ‘cheaper’. Sort of. It’s always fascinating to see what happens when a lauded, Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant launches a ‘casual’ spin-off. When Dabbous attempted it, the result was the very different and somewhat odd Barnyard. Both of those restaurants have now closed and, in retrospect, Barnyard felt a somewhat patronising, phoned-in … Continue reading
Tag Archives: masala chai
Kashmir, Putney review – menu handholding that doesn’t infantilise the diner
Southwest London doesn’t know how lucky it really is Menus may look like an innocuous list of dishes and prices to most people. But, unless they’ve been written on the fly by a sleep-deprived proprietor teetering on the edge of alcoholism, they can be a far more calculated, insidious instrument designed to subtly serve the … Continue reading
Darjeeling Express review – Kingly Court Indian has inner beauty
Judging a restaurant on more than how good it looks on Instagram Update 31/7/2017 – added remarks about the bone marrow to the details of the goat curry An opinion column published on the newly launched London version of Eater caused a small stir among the capital’s restaurant watchers. The piece railed against the pernicious effects … Continue reading
Dishoom breakfast review – Breakfast Mumbai-style
Beyond the introduction of cereal bars and the occasional reheated curry from the night before, breakfasts haven’t changed that much over the years. The Jolly Giant, the Lensman, the Flame Haired Squelchie and I have therefore been seeking out the more unusual and inventive breakfasts available in London. The breakfast menu at Alan Yau’s budget-friendly Chinese … Continue reading
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