Farang review – Highbury hinterland Thai residency that must become permanent
★★★★☆ / Thai

Farang review – Highbury hinterland Thai residency that must become permanent

San Daniele takes on a new life As someone with a reasonably high tolerance for spiciness, I had never really understood why some people were so adverse to chilli-infused foods that they would purposely avoid restaurants specialising in it. That was until I witnessed someone attempting to down a bottle of highly potent, naga-infused chilli … Continue reading

Kiln review – Smoking Goat sequel dazzles Soho in a different way
★★★★★ / Thai

Kiln review – Smoking Goat sequel dazzles Soho in a different way

Less of a sibling and more of a cousin Second acts are hard, whether you’re switching careers, releasing a second album or opening a follow-up restaurant. With the latter, the easiest ways forward is to copy the same template as the original or dilute your idea for a wider audience. Sometimes, second restaurants feel like … Continue reading

Som Saa review – eye-opening pop-up Thai settles down in Spitalfields
★★★★★ / Thai

Som Saa review – eye-opening pop-up Thai settles down in Spitalfields

Some say it’s the best Thai in London. All we know is that we call it bloody brilliant. It’s very easy to become jaded and disillusioned when covering London’s restaurants. From the devised-by-committee initiatives to the cynical tourist trap theme parks, from overwrought concepts and dull chains to the atrocious bandwagon jumpers, there’s no shortage of mediocre and down … Continue reading

Smoking Goat review – Thai Soho barbecue
★★★★☆ / Barbecue/BBQ / Thai

Smoking Goat review – Thai Soho barbecue

Smoky moody Tottenham Court Road dive bar Updated 12/02/2016 – added back room private dining details Updated 16/02/2015 – updated opening times This review was originally published on 5/11/2014 and has since been updated Thai food in London has been stuck in something of a rut, with the usual pad thais and green curries predominating. That’s slowly … Continue reading

Rosa’s Thai Cafe review – Carnaby Street Thai surprise
★★★★☆ / Thai

Rosa’s Thai Cafe review – Carnaby Street Thai surprise

Thai mini-chain sprouts again in Soho Restaurants, especially those serving foreign cuisines, have a funny relationship with names. They will often have a cliched name related to the mother country – a disproportionate number of Thai restaurants, for example, will have some combination of ‘Thai’, ‘Siam’, ‘lotus’ or ‘elephant’ in their name.  Then there’s the … Continue reading

Naamyaa Cafe review – Busaba Eathai’s awkward younger brother
★★★☆☆ / Thai

Naamyaa Cafe review – Busaba Eathai’s awkward younger brother

Alan Yau does it again? London’s restaurant going public can be broadly divided into two camps: those that care about celebrity chefs, brand names and trends and those that don’t. People in the first camp will almost certainly have heard of Alan Yau, the entrepreneur behind Wagamama, Busaba Eathai, Cha Cha Moon, Hakkasan and Yauatcha. … Continue reading