Mãos review – the enigmatic Viajante supper club isn’t that mysterious after all
★★★☆☆ / Modern European / Modernist

Mãos review – the enigmatic Viajante supper club isn’t that mysterious after all

But don’t tell that to the Nuno Mendes fanboys Update 10/4/18 – added a few new sentences to the conclusion. When you’re one of London’s most feted chefs, responsible for smash hits like the Chiltern Firehouse and Taberna do Mercado, then there’s only one thing left for you to do. You open a secretive supper … Continue reading

Shu Xiangge Chinatown review – plenty of brains and heart, just not always in the right places
★★★☆☆ / Chinese / Chinese Noodles / Sichuanese

Shu Xiangge Chinatown review – plenty of brains and heart, just not always in the right places

Unapologetically Sichuanese hotpot Shuang Shuang, the Chinese hotpot restaurant married to a conveyor belt, befuddled many of its Chinatown neighbours when it first opened. Comparatively expensive with somewhat unadventurous ingredients, a bit too much logistical fuss on your part and a relative lack of large communal pots for group dining, it broke all the Chinatown … Continue reading

Indian Accent vs Gymkhana review: black pudding naan vs venison biryani
★★★★☆ / ★★★☆☆ / Indian/South Asian

Indian Accent vs Gymkhana review: black pudding naan vs venison biryani

Slumming it in Mayfair for South Asian haute cuisine giggles Pitting Gymkhana against Indian Accent seems like such a natural thing to do. Both are pricey high-end Indian restaurants on the same street in Mayfair, located mere yards apart from each other. And yet the outcome almost seems like such a forgone conclusion. In one … Continue reading

Bombay Bustle review – the casual Jamavar spin-off stuck at the platform
★★★☆☆ / Indian/South Asian

Bombay Bustle review – the casual Jamavar spin-off stuck at the platform

In this case ‘casual’ means ‘cheaper’. Sort of. It’s always fascinating to see what happens when a lauded, Michelin-starred fine-dining restaurant launches a ‘casual’ spin-off. When Dabbous attempted it, the result was the very different and somewhat odd Barnyard. Both of those restaurants have now closed and, in retrospect, Barnyard felt a somewhat patronising, phoned-in … Continue reading

The best dishes of 2017 – food that you need in your life
★★★★★ / ★★★★☆ / ★★★☆☆ / News

The best dishes of 2017 – food that you need in your life

2017 has been an incredibly hectic year for London restaurants, even by the frenetic standards of this city. Despite the closure of some much missed favourites, new restaurants have continued to open at a dizzying and surely unsustainable pace. Some of that has been driven by a modest influx of celebrity chefs from abroad – … Continue reading

Yen review – the soba ‘specialists’ that also serve sushi, sashimi and donburi
★★★☆☆ / Japanese / Japanese Noodles

Yen review – the soba ‘specialists’ that also serve sushi, sashimi and donburi

A head-scratching double take on The Strand Bringing an under-appreciated cuisine or dish to foreign shores is an effort fraught with all sorts of logistical, culinary and financial difficulties. Reviewing such an effort isn’t as arduous, but still has pitfalls of its own. Yen, a new restaurant on The Strand, is a purported specialist in … Continue reading